454 The Hunting Grounds 



interpreter and a cook, both very necessary adjuncts 

 to our establishment, and in the afternoon lent us 

 horses, and took us over the town and the adjacent 

 country. Dined at the Hotel de France, which we 

 found to. be an establishment needing many reforms, 

 as both the bedrooms and salle d manger are dirty, 

 the attendance bad, and the living abominable. The 

 charges are moderate. We found the cuisine of the 

 Cafe Ourse (kept by a good-looking damsel, weighing 

 some eighteen stone more or less, whom we designated 

 " the Stout Party ") much better ; indeed, we had 

 every reason to be satisfied both with the cleanliness 

 of the place and the cooking. 



Thursday, ISth. Was engaged the whole day in 

 purchasing wine, spirits, and supplies of all kinds for 

 our expedition. Heard from some of the officers of 

 the 70th Eegiment de Ligne that woodcocks had 

 been extremely scarce this season in comparison with 

 other years. 



Visited the town, and strolled about the public 

 promenade outside the walls, 'where the band of the 

 70th played several pieces from different operas in an 

 efficient manner. Bands of French regiments are 

 much stronger than English ones. That of the 70th 

 consisted of fifty performers, exclusive of the drums. 

 Had a wretched dinner at the Hotel de France. 

 Visited a cafe chantant in the evening, where we 

 heard some tolerable singing. 



