CRYSTALLIZATION OF FRUIT IN FRANCE. 887 



ing a thorough permeation of the sugar, aud in consequence the fruit 

 becomes tough, dark in color, and soon grows moldy. When the same 

 water is used a second time for the purpose of boiling, it is thoroughly 

 cooled before receiving the fresh fruit ; it is then slowly heated, the 

 temperature being maintained at a low point for a considerable time. 



When the fruits are not sufficiently soft after the first boiling, they 

 are put into a hot sirup (invariably made of cane sugar) of 25 of 

 density, the water remaining in the fruit is absorbed by the sirup and 

 is gradually reduced. After the preliminary boiling in water the fruit 

 is submitted to the sirup daily for five or ten days, or until the sugar 

 has thoroughly penetrated the pores. After each boiling the fruit is 

 carefully removed from the sirup and put into a cool place to dry. The 

 sirup for the first boiling is always 25 of density, and is increased 2 

 each day until it reaches 36, excepting in cases where it is necessary to 

 submit the fruit to the sirup twice in the same day, then it is only in- 

 creased 1 and is not allowed to boil, but only to scald the fruit. 



Fruits are crystallized with and without rind, whole, in halves, and in 

 quarters. Pears, apples, quinces, aud oranges are generally crystallized 

 peeled. To retain the delicate coloring in such fruit as the apricot, 

 pear, peach, aud chestnut, it is necessary to add to every hectoliter of 

 cold water 40 or 50 grams of pulverized alum. 



Some confectioners employ lemon juice, verjuice, salt, sugar of milk, 

 and epsom salts, to preserve the whiteness of the fruit after boiling and 

 sulphate of copper, vinegar or salt, to retain the green color natural to 

 certain fruits. 



When the crystallized fruit is destined for warm countries it receives 

 additional cooking. The fruit when crystallized is packed in boxes con- 

 taining from a quarter of a pound to two pounds each. 



There are several establishments in Bordeaux devoted to the crystal- 

 lization of fruits. The most important of which is that of Alexander 

 Droz & Co., to whom I am under obligations for much valuable infor- 

 mation. Their average annual sale of crystallized fruits is 160,000 

 pounds, t he half of which is consumed in France. Their annual export- 

 ation of cherries alone to England and Russia is 24,000 pounds. 



It is estimated that very nearly 700,000 pounds of fruit is crystallized 

 at Bordeaux annually. The average cost per pound (not including the 

 price of the fruit) to the producer is 15 cents, or $15 per cwt. The fruits 

 in greatest demand on this market are apricots, cherries, and chestnuts. 

 The separate preparation of each I give in full below. 



APRICOTS. 



The apricots should be picked several days before maturity. An in- 

 cision is made by a knife at the head, and the pit gently forced out, 

 the unripe parts are lightly pricked, and the fruit is then plunged into 

 very cold water containing a little alum or lemon juice. The water is 

 changed frequently before the fruit is transferred to hot sirup of 20 of 

 156A 32 



