FOR PROFIT. 37 



than Apples, and must not be cut so severely. The 

 tree should then have its head examined, the planter 

 holding it so that he can, as it were, look it in the 

 face on a line with the trunk. He will then see at a 

 glance if there are more shoots than are required to 

 form a symmetrical head, by preference he retains 3, 

 5, or 7 shoots, placed at equal distances, like the 

 spokes of a wheel. I mean if we get seven, so much 

 the better, but it is, for the purpose of foundation, 

 preferable to have even three at a regular distance 

 between each other, than to have four or five, the 

 balance of which is uneven. All surplus shoots must 

 be cut clean away, and the rest should not be cut or 

 tipped. After a summer's growth (in February by 

 preference, avoiding frosty weather), this head is to be 

 cut back rather severely, leaving, say five or six eyes 

 at the base, but cutting so that the end bud is left 

 pointing outwards at the extremity. From this cutting 

 several shoots will issue, and in July the pruner 

 should go over his trees and cut back (leaving only 

 one inch of wood) those that are in the middle of the 

 tree, preserving at their full length all those that form 

 a head like an inverted umbrella. The following 

 February these are again shortened ; but this time 

 allow about six inches of the new wood, and continue 

 the operation for a few years, leaving 9 to 12 inches 

 for extension ; the trees will begin to bear on the old 

 wood in the third year. Keep the centre of the trees 

 thinned out winter and summer, and do not allow too 

 many shoots to encumber the tree, but prune so that 

 all main branches hang free and do not cross each 

 other. Possibly, in a few more years, some branches 

 may be cut away with advantage, as there will be 



