58 TEA 



quality and price, could be relied on as a wholesome com- 

 modity produced under absolutely cleanly conditions. 



The peasant tea-farmers of China use no machinery, 

 and their workshop is a barn, a shed, a room in farm- 

 house or cottage, or maybe an outhouse belonging to 

 some temple or monastery. To some such simple 

 workshop, which may be a mere hovel, the freshly- 

 plucked leaves are brought from the fields. The crisp- 

 ness is then cooked out of them. I have already 

 introduced you to the " drying-pans " in which this 

 operation is performed. You have also seen the next 

 performance in the general method of treatment — ex- 

 pelling moisture from the leaves and rolling them by 

 the aid of hands or feet. The rolled leaves are spread 

 in a thin, even layer upon bamboo frames, and left to 

 dry naturally ; great care must be taken to see that 

 the sun does not scorch them, for it is essential that 

 they shall still be soft for the next operation. After 

 evaporation has been effected, the leaves are once more 

 put into the drying-pans, and slowly cooked for about 

 an hour ; to prevent them from getting burnt they are 

 well stirred, first by hand, and then, when they are too 

 hot to touch, by the help of bamboo whisks. 



The tea-cooks wear very little clothing, and perspire 

 as freely as though they were taking a Turkish bath. 

 If you were invited to partake of a pudding which you 

 knew had been made by a cook while she was taking 

 a Turkish bath, how would you feel about tasting it ? 

 At first, probably you would say, "No, thank you." 

 But suppose you were then told that this pudding 

 was a particularly nice one, such as no other cook 

 could make. Might you not feel just a little tempted 

 to try it ? And suppose you were further told 



