General Notices. 515 



creases the amount of floral beauty tliroughout the summer and autumn. It 

 is susceptible of three divisions — first, long ; second, moderate ; and third, 

 close pruning. 



Long pruning is employed for all strong, vigorous, free-growing kinds. 

 The consequence of a vigorous growing Rose being close pruned is, that it 

 will make a quantity of strong shoots, generally springing from the crown 

 close to the stock, and very likely no flower during the whole year, at all 

 events, not until late in the autumn. The proper plan is to leave from five 

 to eight strong shoots, placed as regularly as possible, to cut tliem back so 

 as to leave four or five buds of last year's wood, and tlien carefully to prune 

 away all weak and dead branches. Roses do not flower well in the centre of 

 the bush, and tlierefore that part should be Avell tliinned out, leaving the 

 branches as free of each other as possible. As a general rule, it is not 

 right to cut into the bush below the preceding year's Avood ; but when the 

 trees become old, it is necessary now and then, to cut away a portion of the 

 old wood, which becomes clubbed ; and this applies more or less to all Rose 

 trees. These remarks apply to most of the Hybrid Chinas and Hybrid 

 Bourbons, also to some of tlie Hybrid Provence, Hybrid Perpetuals, and 

 Bourbons. 



IModeiate pruning consists in using the knife more freely than in the 

 former case, in leaving but two eyes of last year's wood, and in carefully 

 training the branches, so as to make the head round and compact. As 

 Roses tliat require moderate pruning, have a greater natural tendency to 

 flower, tlian those in tlie last mentioned class, a little inattention is not so 

 injurious to them. Under this head may be enumerated the greater part of 

 our newest and best Roses, including tlie Moss, Gallica, Damask, Hybrid 

 Damask, Perpetual, and a great portion of the best Hybrid Perpetuals, and 

 Bourbons. 



The third method, or close pruning system, is used for those Roses which 

 are termed dwarf growers, or that make but little wood. This class is not 

 numerous in comparison with the others, but it contains many of the bright- 

 est gems of tlie Rosery. They succeed better on dwarf stocks, than on 

 those four or five feet high. In some cases tliey are shy growers, and apt 

 to over-flower their strength. This is obviated by close pruning, as the 

 strongest shoots come from the crown ; and as it is the interest of tlie 

 grower to get wood in this class, the last year's shoots should be cut away 

 pretty freely. Under this head may be classed a few of the best Moss 

 Roses, and many Hybrid Perpetuals, Damask Perpetuals, and some of the 

 Bourbon tribe."— (//ori. Jour., 1850, p. 068.) 



Pru>i>'g Newly Planted Fruit Trees. — In an article wliich appeared 

 in your valuable paper of tlie 28th of September, Mr. Cramb lays down a rule 

 for planting and prunuig fruit trees, which he says is not original. I cer- 

 tainly must confess it is quite new to me. Having considered the kind, sit- 

 uation, &c., says Mr. Cramb, a circular hole should be made three or four 

 feet wide and one foot deep, the bottom of which should be made solid to 

 prevent the roots entering tlie subsoil — the water too, I should suppose. I 

 should like to know what kind of a tree it is that requires but one foot of soil 

 in depth and say four feet in diameter, which gives little more than twelve 



