28 



THE POMOLOGIST. 



Feb. 



Grafting the Grape. 



"We have had so many inquiries rtspectiug 

 grafting the grape that we fear we have 

 not been fully understood in what we have 

 previously said in the Gardener's , Monthly 

 upon the subject. "We hope after several 

 years further experience to be able to add 

 something new if not to simplify it. 



It appears strange that an operation of 

 such simplicity should still remain a mys- 

 tery. "We seldom read anything upon the 

 subject but what appears to be grafting on 

 the brain instead of prciHicaUy grafting a 

 grape mne. All this talk about a want of 

 congeniality between the stock and scion is 

 purely speculative. "We have grafted with 

 equal success the different species and vari- 

 eties, wild and cultivated, have been unable 

 to see any difference, in uniting, growth or 

 productiveness ; have had over two hundred 

 feet of growth the first season, and over sixty 

 bunches of grapes the following season from 

 a single eye graft "We believe a thousand 

 well matured eyes can be procured from one 

 by strictly following the letter of this article 

 in its various details. 



In the Fall immediately after the first kill- 

 ing frost, (say about the 20th of October 

 in Kansas) cut well matured grape wood 

 with as little pith as possible, (we prefer 

 small, short jointed wood from the laterals) 

 for grafting. Cut this wood in convenient 

 lengths and tie iu small bundles with willow, 

 and pack down in your cellar or away from 

 frost for safety, convenience and easy access. 

 As early in the spring as the frost leaves the 

 ground and it has become settled, commence 

 to graft and cease grafting as soon as the 

 vines commence to bleed freely. The earlier 

 the work is done the better. Februaty, 

 March or April, according to season and 

 location. 



To succeed well, the stocks should be at 

 least two years old. Take the earth away 

 from around them about four inches deep, 

 and cut the vines off at a clean smooth 

 place about two inches below the surface of 

 the ground. They should be graited soon 

 after <^ut off and not exposed to the wind, 

 sun or air long. 



If not immediately grafted cover them 

 over with earth until you are ready. Cut 

 the top of the stock smooth and then ped off 

 aXL tlve loose ba/rk (leaving none but the inner 

 thin hark) around the stock as low down as 

 the graft goes ; split or rather cut the stock 

 by holding the knife (which should be 

 straight on the edge) nearly perpendicular 

 on the side you wish to insert the graft, and 

 strike it gently with a light mallet until you 

 cut it deep and low enough to set the graft, 

 but be very careful not to cut through to the 

 opposite side ; then with a very narrow iron 

 wedge, thickest on the outside, drive it gently 

 until you open the stock wide enougli to set 

 the graft, but not so as to split it through to 

 the opposite side. If the stock is small use 

 small or thin cions, cut tliem with two or 



three buds if short jointed, (if scarce, one 

 bud will do iirovided there is length of wood 

 below the bud of two or more inches) peel 

 aU the loose bark off (leave none but the thin 

 inner bark) on the cud as far as inserted in 

 the stock ; wedge the graft so it will be the 

 thickest on the outside to exactly fit the split 

 and match the stock ; place the graft in 

 firmly so when the wedge is removed tlie 

 stock will hold it securely without tying, 

 with tlic greatest pressure on the outside of 

 the graft (use no wax) ; If the stock should 

 split through, cut it off and try again ; if 

 careful this will seldom happen; pack the 

 earth around the graft firmly and let but one 

 bud be level with the surface (never below) ; 

 if too high, mound up to the bud. In case 

 you cannot cut off under the ground, the 

 graft can be inserted above, using the same 

 length cion, and bank up the earth firmly to 

 the upper bud. 



It sometimes happens iu old wild vines, as 

 well as those cultivated, that the roots branch 

 out at or near the surface of the ground. — 

 In such instances were we to cut them off 

 below the surface roots we would lose the 

 full strength of our stocks, therefore in such 

 cases it is best to cut them off above these 

 roots but as near to as convenient and graft 

 the stocks there and bank up as before men- 

 tioned. 



If the grafting is done early in the spring 

 it is best to cover the graft several inches 

 with earth and let it remain until all hard 

 freezing is over, otherwise the frost might 

 lift the grafts out of their places. "When all 

 danger is over remove the earth and let the 

 upper bud expand. Never allow a bud to 

 be in a hole to fill with water and mud.^ 

 "Watch and keep the suckers down or they 

 will soon rob the graft. Cultivate well and 

 protect the grafts by tying them up to 

 stakes as fast as they grow. 



"We may have been tedious in giving all 

 the details, but find it even necessary to 

 emphasize and parenthesize in answer to 

 numerous questions. The grape may be 

 successfully grafted after the leaves have 

 put out, and even up to June and July, using 

 the green grape wood for cion. As we have 

 only space in this number to give early spring 

 grafting, we shall defer the other methods 

 and seasoufi to a future number, with illus> 

 trations, giving ample time to perform the 

 work. Kan. Ast. Ed. 



For the Weetern Pomologiet, 



Fruit Growers of Kansas, 

 You should take the "Westekn Pomolo- 



OIST, 



Firet — Because it is directly identified 

 with your interests, and will be ably edited 

 by practical horticulturists who know 

 equally well how to handle spade or pen. 



Second — Because its contributors will be 

 largely made up of practical "Western men, 

 who have learned the great difference in 

 Eastern and "Western horticulture, and will 

 teach you facts as well as theory. 



Third — Because it will be your journal 

 and afford you a welcome messenger for the 

 exchange of experience, and whose editors 

 will iiublish your contributions iu the spirit 

 iu which you design them, and encourage 

 yo\i to help each other. 



Fourth — Because there is no other purely 

 horticultural journal in the "West, through 

 which 3'ou can communicate, without being 

 lialjle to have your matter so controverted 

 as to make you look rediculous, though your 

 intentions be ever so good. The Pomolo- 

 GisT will be your true friend, and let you be 

 engaged in any of the branches of garden- 

 ing, in it you will find an advocate of your 

 best interests. 



Fifth — Because you have heretofore had 

 no medium through which to explain 

 away an error, or speak of an injustice 

 done you by designing or erroneous 

 reporters, who too often forget the interest 

 of their employers and turn to ridicule that 

 kind of intelligence which should be ac- 

 ceptable to those who read their papers. — 

 For a specimen, I refer you to the Prairie 

 Farmer of January 15, 1870, No. 2, page 11, 

 in which their reporter has proved himself 

 anything but a true Hortc'ral Reporter, and is 

 richly deserving the Farinefs largest leather 

 "medal" to "tickle his vanity," and partly 

 remunerate him for coming five hundred 

 miles to misrepresent the spirit and feelings 

 of a body of worthy old men, who have 

 grown gray in the science of horticulture, 

 and knew more of its arts before he was 

 born than it probably ever will be his priv- 

 ilege to enjoy. The members of the Kansas 

 State Horticultural Society, of whom he 

 speaks so " wisely," volentarily gives their 

 time and money for the honest advancement 

 of their cause, and for the good of their 

 young and undeveloped State, and will try 

 also to take care of their rights as a Society. 

 Kansas Boy. 



Let us Have Facts. 



Make Miller— Z>(!«)- Sir: — I have just 

 received the first number of the "Western 

 PoMOLOGiST. I am well pleased with its 

 general make-up and typography. It fills a 

 great vacancy, and afl'ords a medium for the 

 exchange of experiences and information by 

 "Western pomologists. 



Facts are what we want. "We want to 

 know what varieties have succeeded and 

 what ones have failed in the various locali- 

 ties in the "West; and the cause of the suc- 

 cess or failure, so tar as can be ascertianed, 

 including the descrii)tion of the site, soil, 

 culture, seasons, (whether wet or dry, cool or 

 hot) age, and all other matters connected, so 

 as to more fully enable the reader to make 

 up an opinion for himself. 



Hoping the PoMOLOGiST success and long 

 Ufe, I remain. Yours, truly, 



R. P. Hanan. 



Suray, CUirk Co., Mo. 



