74 



THE POMOLOGIST. 



June 



Viniculture & Wine Making in California. 



The Sau Francisco Commercial Herald 

 and Market Review has a very interesting 

 article on this subject, from which the fol- 

 lowing is condensed : 



It is said tliat altliough the vintage of the 

 past year has proved in many parts of Cali- 

 fornia a partial failure, the number of vines 

 set out has been larger than ever before, the 

 disposition to plant haviug become very 

 geueral among all classes of land owners. 

 Not having the exact figures the increase is 

 estimated as ranging from four to five million 

 vines, the whole^number now growing in the 

 State approximating forty millions. Of these 

 about three-fifths are bearing — two-fifths be- 

 ing from six to eight years old, giving them 

 the requisite age to l)ear freely. At first the 

 Los Angeles or California variety — more 

 commonly called the Mission grape, was most 

 generally planted. It is a hardy plant and 

 a sturdy" and prolific bearer, the fruit being 

 small and sweet, but greatly inferior in flavor, 

 as well as in size and in wine making, to 

 most foreign varieties. As cuttings of the 

 latter cau now be procured, and they are for 

 every purpose so much more valuable, but 

 few of the Mission grapes have been planted 

 of late. Some of tlie latter are also being 

 grafted with the foieign varieties. Some of 

 the interior regions are found better adapted 

 to viniculture,'than the richer lauds and more 

 humid atmosphere towards the sea. Owing 

 to the greater heat during the summer, the 

 grape grown in the former locality contains 

 a larger percentage of saccharine matter, 

 while it is notorious that the vine ever finds 

 in the poorer varieties of soil a genial home. 



The shortness of the grape crop, though 

 not so great as was feared early in the season, 

 was still very marked, the yield amounting 

 in some localities to less than half, and aggre- 

 gating the State through, a half less than 

 that of preceedins years. The causes of this 

 deficiency have beeen variously assigned to 

 mildew, to the disease called odium In 

 France, to an overbearing of the vines the 

 preceediug year, and finally to their early 

 flowering, which occurred two weeks sooner 

 than usual, a high wind having during this 

 period blown off the tender blossoms; tlie 

 last named being no doubt the most efficient 

 cause of harm, as neither mildew nor the 

 odium have as j'et prevailed to any extent in 

 California, except in Sonoma Valley. The 

 flower of sulphur has been used as a preven- 

 tive of the two latter — two applications of 

 20 to 35 lbs. each per acre, are considered 

 sufl5cient. 



The falling off in the grape crop has ad- 

 vanced the price of fruit, the ruling rates 

 paid the vine growers having been ten to 

 twenty per cent, higher than in ordinary 

 years. So, too, the dealer is now obliged to 

 pay from 40 to 45 cents per gallon for white 

 and red wines after the first fermentation, 

 which one 3'ear ago could be bought for 30 

 cents per gallon. 



A notable feature in the wine trade is the 

 increasing quantity made from foreign vari- 

 eties of grapes. The first of these in any 

 quantity were imported by Col. Hiirazthy. 

 They have found their way into all parts of 

 the State, and are now coming generally in- 

 to bearing. The geueral term, California 

 wine, no longer serves to express the differ- 

 ent qualities of this article now produced in 

 the State. With the manufacture of so 

 many new kinds, the employment of addi- 

 tional terms has become necessary, our en- 

 larged vocabulary embracing the" names of 

 the Reisling the Muscat, Sherry, Maderia, 

 Burgundy, Malaga, Cneomungo, Zinfindel, 

 Frontigaan, the Chasselas du Foye, and 

 other favorite and even fiimous brands, be- 

 sides the Angelica and some other wines 

 bearing names originating among ourselves. 

 From the Califor.da grape we manage to 



make Claret, Port, Sherry, Angelica, Cham- 

 pagne and Maderia wines, besides a white 

 wine of the Hock variety. Of the choicer 

 grapes, we are coming to have a great di- 

 versitj', not less perhaps than fifty kinds be- 

 ing now under culture in the State, all mark 

 ed by greater or less diflerences, and all en 

 titled to preference in some respects — the 

 varieties, as a general thing, esteemed most 

 valuable, either for wine~making or table use 

 being the Reislings, Ziiifindel. Frontignan, 

 Chasselas, Alicante, Pineau.x, Verdelho, Red 

 Gramina,, Black Hamburgh, Isabella, Flam- 

 ing Tokay, Muscat, Linto and Catawba. It is 

 said that any one of these grapes is capable 

 of being made into several varieties of wine, 

 according to the treatment and process em- 

 ployed, some descriptions being largely used 

 to impart bouquet and flavor to others. 

 There are three vine growing departments 

 in Califoriiia, the products of which are 

 marked bj' well defined and easily recognized 

 differences. The first consists of the coun- 

 ties lying around and adjacimt to the Bay of 

 Sau Francisco. Here many of the vineyards 

 are planted on clay, gmwi/.g a grape that 

 yitldsauacid wine, suitable fir Claret, Hock, 

 Sauterne, etc. Grajjes raised in the south- 

 ern counties of tlie State make good Port, 

 Angelica and other sweet wines, sprightly, 

 but not so rich in aroma. The third division 

 composed of the foothills of the Sierra Ne> 

 vada, embracing the gold-bearing belt of the 

 State, is the mo.st favorably conditioned for 

 grape-growing, as regards soil and climate, 

 of any portion of California. The grapes of 

 this region being well flavored, and abound- 

 ing in saccharine matter, make good dry 

 wine, such as Madeira, Sherry, Burgundy 

 and Tenerift'e, as well also as Port, and what 

 are known as German wines, all of which 

 are distinguished for both their aroma and 

 bouquet. 



"With this more extensive culture of the 

 improved grape, with more care in the man- 

 agement of vinej'ards, and greater skill in 

 making wines, the latter are growing rapidly 

 in favor Jaoth at home and abroad, it now 

 being conceded tliat California cau produce 

 as good natural wine as any other part of the 

 world, only age and careful treatment being 

 required to render it equal in every respect 

 to the best ijroduced in older wine-growing 

 countries. The wines made in former j'ears 

 were not so good. This was owing to want 

 of experience, a poorer class of grapes, often 

 grown on unsuitable soils, and on rich, 

 alluvial lands, the juice had an earthy taste. 

 Besides, a general, and not altogether unjust 

 prejudice grew up against California wines. 

 This feeling, however, is fast abating, many 

 trials having been made of late in which 

 certain wines have been pronounced by 

 experts equal to the prodnct of some of tlie 

 most famous of the wine-growing districts 

 of Europe. The extensive planting of supe- 

 rior vines is expected to preserve, and even 

 enhance the good rei)Ute in Avhich the wines 

 are now held. The gain in this direction is 

 seen in the fact that city vinters are paying 

 fully srveuty per cent, more for wines made 

 from these choice varieties than from the 

 Mission grape, while the prices realized for 

 the former kinds, especiall_v those preferred 

 for table use, are often much greater. Some 

 of the growers of foreign grapes have the 

 past year netted profits varying from|400 to 

 $700 per acre, the average profit on an acre 

 of Mi.ssion grapes being from $60 to S70, and 

 rarely ever exceeding |100. While the cur- 

 eeut price of wine from the last vintage of 

 the Mission grape is 40 cents per gallon for 

 white, and 45 for red, wholesale, that from a 

 mixture of foreig.i and Mission grapes sells 

 for 60 to 70 cents per gallon, Zinfindel and 

 other choice brands for 70 cents, and Alexan- 

 dria Muscat for $1. 



It is also said that while the fiweign vine 

 yields a more luscious and valuable fruit. 



some varieties are more prolific bearers. The 

 Mission grape atibrds from .300 to 500 gallons 

 per acre, varying in different sections, while 

 the j'ield of the improved varieties is from 

 70 to 100 per cent more. In addition to this 

 quantity of wine, from fifteen to twenty 

 gallons of brandy can be made from the 

 residue of the pressed grapes, from each acre 

 of laud. The average annual yield of grapes 

 to the acre, varies with the soil, climate, 

 variet_v of vines, skillful culture, etc., ranging 

 from 6,000 to 12,000 pounds per acre— as high 

 as 20.000 pounds being sometimes obtained. 

 This is said to be about double the yield 

 common in the Eastern States and Europe. 

 To render the wiue more popular, it is 

 said it must be made cheaper ; at present, 

 one year old wines cost from 60 to 80 cents 

 per gallon. Various plans have been .sug- 

 gested, of which close planting has promised 

 well, and it is said is now growing in favor; 

 the vines are set four feet apart, instead of 

 eight, the usual practice. Close planting is 

 preferred on higher soils, while upon rich 

 soils the vine is more luxuriant and requires 

 greater space. 



For some years there was great diflSculty 

 in producing good wine in California, owing 

 to want of good grapes and of skillful 

 manufacturers and wine-dressers ; but this is 

 now changed ; choice grapes are grown and 

 well managid, and many pure wines pro- 

 duced. ExeeUent champiigne is made, also 

 sparkling wine of superior excellence, while 

 great improvement has been made iu the 

 manufacture of red wines. '1 he wines, such 

 as they are, are generally the pure juice of 

 the grape, uncontaminated with sweeten- 

 ings, flavorings or coloring matter. 



As to the quantit3' made, it is said the 

 product of 1860 will probablj' not fall short 

 of 5,000,000 galUnis, as against 7,000,000 in 

 1868, and 4,000,000 in 1867. There was less 

 brandy made from grapes last year than 

 during eitlier of the two preceding years — 

 the quantity made in 1869 being estimated at 

 200,000 gallons, as against 400,000 in 1868, 

 and 300,000 gallons iu 1807. 



Viniculture is rapidly increasing, and it 

 would not be at all surprising if the amount 

 of vines now growing should be increased 

 by a fifth or .i fmrth during the next five 

 montlis, making the new planting some 

 eight or ten million vines. The growing 

 popularity of the vines at home and abroad, 

 the increasing use of grapes as an article of 

 fooci, and the large profits generally secured, 

 are inducing people to engage exten- 

 sively in this business. It is now clearly 

 established that the soil and climate of Cali- 

 fornia are better adapted to viniculture than 

 those of any other country iu the world. 

 The grape grows and produces in almost 

 every part of the State, and with the least 

 possible care. The vine takes root readily, 

 beors early, and is apt to be prolific. It 

 sutt'ers but little from disease or meteorlogi- 

 cal causes. It grows with a sturdy, self- 

 sustaining stem, not gi-nerall_y requiring the 

 support of stakes. The soil being new, and 

 abounding in volcanic mould and other 

 elements grateful to the vine, needs no 

 manure. It yi(dds aliout 100 per cent than 

 in mo.st other countries. In the second year 

 after graflii.gand tin- third after planting, it 

 begins to bear, a;:d ia six or eight years is 

 producing its full complement of fruit. The 

 berry rarely ever mildews or sufl'ers from 

 frost". But once has there been even a par- 

 tial failure of the crop, while the fact of 

 there being vineyards still bearing as freely 

 as ever at the age of 70 years, sufflciently 

 attests the longevity and Vigor of the vine 

 iu this State. 



Here, too, the vintager has ample time 

 for gathering flie grape, which, owing to 

 the warm, tlry weather, ma}' be left on the 

 vine for weeks after fully ripe, without re- 

 ceiving special harm. "The warmth and 



