Pomology, 



Gardening, 



Forestry, Horticulture, Rural Architecture, Bees, 



Vol. I. 



DES MOINES, IOWA; LEA.VENWRTH, KANSAS, NOVEMBER, 1S70. 



No. 11 



MARK IMILLER, 



Editor and Proprietor, - - Bcs Moines, 

 J. STAYMAN, Leavenworth, Kansas. 



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The Season and its Duties— November 

 ■^ork. 



Bummer has departed, and stern wiuter 

 draws on apace. Tree, shrub and vine are 

 now at rest. Their season of circulation 

 and growth is past, and all must sleep until 

 ajraiii stirred iato new life by the genial 

 warmth of spring. During this long season 

 ot rest, trees, plants- and vines are subject to 

 serious evils, and often fatal ones, but from 

 which a little care and labor rightly applied 

 just now, will save them. Henct-, much 

 of the future success of the Western horti- 

 culturist depends upon the proper perform- 

 ance of his iSovember worli. 



Against the ravages of /uice, often so 

 destructive in the orchard and nursery, noth- 

 ing is more effectual, or safe, than a conical 

 mound of earth, a foot or so high, thrown 

 up around the stem of the tree. It also 

 affords protection to the collar and roots of 

 the tree. The prim? cause of bark-bursting 

 at, or near the ground, results from the sud- 

 den extremes of winter. Protect the roots 

 and stem with earth, and this danger is obvi- 

 ated. A nprserymun in Washington county 

 lost 1.5,000 yearling apple trees by bark- 

 bursting last f dl, c uised no doubt by the 

 severe freeze in October. Had furrows been 

 thrown up previous!}', both ways, to the 

 steins of the trees the owner would not hive 

 suffered that loss. 



Take down tender grape vines from the 

 trellis and slightly bury in earth, or cover 

 with straw— earth is preferabl.'. Though 

 hardy vines, and the Doolittle aud Philadel 



pliia ra-ipberrit's stand winter, aud fruit lib- 

 erally with no protection — all will do better 

 with it. The raspberry and blackberry 

 should be well mulched with coarse manure, 

 to the depth of four or five inches. The 

 roots of these plants range ijear the surface 

 and sliould be protected from the changes of 

 weather in wiuter. 



One and two year old uursjry trees should 

 be banked up, by throwing up a furrow on 

 either side, for the winter. This is indis. 

 peasable to the safety of the trees. If not 

 done, nineteen chances to twenty the trees 

 will be lost. 



Make cuttings of currants, goosbcrries, 

 and grapes. Cious fjr root or top-grafiing 

 should also be separated from the parent 

 stock early in December. All are more 

 vigorous taken off early than if left longer 

 exposed to the alternations of heat and cold. 

 Cions for top-grafting in spring, aud currant 

 cuttings, are better buried in the earth for 

 the wiuter. Cions for winter use aud root 

 grafting, pack in damp saw-dust. 



Trees received in a frozen condition should 

 be buried without delay, tmt of doors in the 

 cold earth. No matter how cold the weather 

 may be, dig a trench ai:d bury at once — 

 working the cold earth in among the roots 

 as thorough!}- as if transplanting the tree for 

 life. Never put frozen trees into a cellar, as 

 is often recommended ; that will not save the 

 roots, however moist a id cool the cellar may 

 be. The roots must be excluded from light 

 and air while the frost is coming out. 



The asparagus aud pie-plant beds will 

 give an earlier crop of fruit if well covered 

 with straw or coarse manure. 



PROTECTION OF THE STBAWBERBT. 



The strawberry jtatch should be covered 

 in winter with coarse straw or prairie hay — 

 the firmer is preferable. No kind of litter, 

 such as decayed leaves, half rotted manure, 

 etc., (often recommended) should be all.)wed. 

 Such material— especally if a little too freely 

 used — is apt to pack down in damp or wet 

 weather, and thereby injure the crnv,-n of 

 the plant. Nor should the straw be applied 

 prematurely— not before the ground has 

 been frozen to the depth of three or four 

 inches — then spread on evenly, and in such 

 quantity as to insure a depth of about three 

 inches when well settled. Under such a 

 coveriug for the winter, the plants will be 



safe. The strawberry is p rfectly hardy, 

 requiring no protection from frost. It is the 

 alternate freezing aud thawing of the 

 ground, high wind<, etc., that is to be guard- 

 ed against during the winter and early 

 spring months. Keep the ground frozen — 

 t'aa.'s all. 



Fall Transplanting— Burying Trees. 



1 he question is often put to us, " Do you 

 approve of transplanting fruit trees in the 

 fall ?"' We say positively, no, not in this 

 section of country. In the Middle States it 

 will do, but not in a bleak, cold, snowless 

 c.mntry like this. But we do approve of 

 taking up all kinds of deciduous trees, 

 (intended for spring setting) in the fall, and 

 burying^ them for the winter, for various 

 reasons. All tender trees, and even those 

 hardy, as many varieties of apple, pear, 

 plum, and cherry, will start off more vignr- 

 ously, audmakeat least a third more growth, 

 if taken up in the fall and rightly buried, root 

 and branch, through winter. Such trees 

 come out in the spring as vigorous and 

 fresh as when lifted from the ground in the 

 fall, while those star.di.jg out must inevitably 

 Iosl; more or less of their vitality, if not 

 itilled outright from exposure to the ex- 

 tremes of wii.ter. We speak from large 

 experience, having practiced burying fruit 

 trees of many sorts for many years past, and 

 the trial in all cases h;is been most satis- 

 factory. It is surprisiiig to us that tree 

 planters are so slow in adopting this practice 

 that so few obtain their trees from the nur- 

 sery iu autumn, rather than defer it till 

 spring. 



Late fall — say from the last of October to 

 the 20ih of November — is u.sually the best 

 time in the season for taking up trees 

 for burying. The trees should be divested 

 of th ir leaves, either by dr pping in the 

 natur.d way, or by hand stripping. It is 

 b.tter that the leaves drop naturally, than 

 to be forced off; for so long as the leaves 

 retain their hold the- new growth of the tree 

 is ripening up. Heeling in, that is, to bury 

 the mots and leave the fops exposed, ioill not 

 do. Such practice is sure to result in injury 

 of the tops, if not in serious loss. Bury, 

 root and briinch, in a sloping position with 

 the roots two feet deei), well a d thoroughly 

 packed in moist earth, and tops just cove r. d. 

 If trees thus cavnX f T in the tall are taken 

 out and properly plaiUed i,i spring, such 

 practice is uniformly attended with the very 

 best results. Try it and see. 



