66 



THE WESTERN POMOLOGIST. 



1871 



fied readily by observation. 



So well established are these principles in practice 

 (but overlooked in their results) that nurserymen 

 bud their stocks at the time they prune them or 

 before as the bark will immediately set, and then 

 they will have to wait some number of days after, 

 imtil it peels again. The same result follows if we 

 shorten in all the shoots and cut off the terminal 

 buds. Here we have a positive fact that an estab- 

 lished tree in active growth, refuses to grow for a 

 number of days by shortening-in or pruning-off its 

 shoots. Now as an established tree can not grow 

 for some time aften being pruned or shortened-in, 

 then how much less can it start and grow when 

 deprived of its buds and brandies at transplanting 

 when not well established. 



If we prune a tree to give it form, we change its 

 natural growth and presume to know better than 

 nature how it should grow to fulfil its destiny. 

 Then we ask why has she impressed her distinct 

 peculiarities of growth and form upon every vari- 

 ety and species. If nature has tailed in her works 

 which are unering, how can fallible, erring man 

 instruct her? The simple fact is we in our pre- 

 sumption suppose that we can do what she has failed 

 to perform to suit our fancy and inmgination. 



To prune a tree to give it vigor is simply chimer- 

 ical; we cheat ourselves into the belief that a few 

 ra^id shoots or a sapling is greater than the whole 

 aggregate growth would have been. How a reas- 

 onable person could w©rk up his imagination to 

 believe in a practice so contradictory and unphilo- 

 sophical, is a profound mistery. 



When ^ limb or tree is cut off the part below the 

 wound does not grow a particle until the top has 

 regained its original circulating capacity j upon 

 the same principle as a conductor of electricity ; a 

 rod whose size is unequal, its conducting power is 

 reduced to the minimum size, because the small 

 portion of the rod has not surface sufficient to con- 

 duct as much as the larger portion. If we 

 prune a tree to hasten its maturity, we retard its 

 circulation and impede its growth, upon the same 

 principle as working it on a dwarf stock ; and a 

 less quantity of fruit is produced early at the cost 

 of the vitality, constitution and longevity of the 

 tree. So, in whatever respect we restrain the 

 growth and natural form of a tree to hasten its 

 maturity or for any other purpose we strike at its 

 vitality and hasten its destruction. 



Tbe Apple.— Its Propagation, No. 2. 



Bt the Associate Editor. 



In selecting a piece of ground for the grafts, it 

 should not be poor, neither very rich, nor hilly, but 

 rather level, although a gentle slope either way is 

 not objectionable. 



It should be clean and dry, deeply and thoroughly 

 plowed and pulverized, and made level by filling up 

 the dead furrows and abrupt irregularities. 



Have a flat dibble made of steel, eight inches long 

 in the blade, two and one-half inches^ wide, and 

 a little over an eighth of an inch thick through the 

 center of the blade, the edges tapering around to a 

 point at the lower end, then beveled on each side 

 and below, with a shank made on the top three inch- 

 es and a half long, for a handle, made at right 

 angles with the blade. The handle should be made 

 of hard hickory or tough oak, five inches longf one 

 inch and one-eighth in diameter and a little larger 

 at one end. Grind the blade smooth, to a dull edge. 



The following cut shows the dibble one-fourth its 

 natural size, and with the above description we 

 hope will be fully understood. As this dibble . is so 

 much superior to any other for all purposes, we have 

 been particular in describing it. 



Also procure a strong line, clear of knots, about 

 sixty or seventy yards long, with two pointed 

 sticks to tie on each end to set into the ground to 

 hold the line in its place. As early in the spring as 

 the ground will work have everything in readiness 

 and commence setting the grafts. 



Graft setting with the old-fashioned 

 round dibble. 



Lay off the ground with an alley running across 

 the rows every sixty or seventy yards, for conveni- 

 ence in passing through the nursery in selecting 

 varieties and taking them out. Having on the 

 ground a box of grafts, a good hand rake, two 

 measuring rods three and one-half feet long, one at 

 each end, (if the ground is scarce, three feet will 

 do,) permanent label-stakes, a small basket or 

 bucket to drop the grafts out of, and a bucket of 

 water. Commence on one side of the first block, 

 and stretch the line to the alley, tight. Then rake 

 over the line, removing all the clods to the damp 

 earth, keeping the line straight. Then take the 

 grafts out of the box, freeing them of the sawdust, 

 and dip them in the water and place them in the 

 basket, enough to go through once. Now let a boy 



