18T1 



THE WESTERN POMOLOGHST. 



67 



lay the grafts on the left side of the line, about ten 

 inches apart, with the roots next the line and close 

 by it. Having placed the label stake, with the name 

 plainly written upon it, at the commencement, take 

 the dibble and walk along upon your knees with the 

 line between them, push the dibble down close to 

 the right side of the line, and give it a slight twist, 

 which will make an open corner. Then stick the 

 graft in its place with the left hand while the dibble 

 is in the ground, and hold it there until the dibble 

 is withdrawn ; then press it in again tolerably close 

 to the graft, and by a twist against it make the graft 

 tirm, leaving but one bud exposed. 



When the row is finished come back and com- 

 mence again at the same end, and so continue until 

 done, commencing the next variety where the last 

 left off, with the label between. Having finished 

 setting all the grafts, make a record in a book 

 of each kind, and the number of each, for fu- 

 ture reference in case a label should be defaced or 

 removed. 



Cultivate the grafts before the weeds start, with a 

 horse-fork run close to the row. Then hand-hoe 

 and weed as often as necessary. Stir the ground 

 frequently with the cultivator, and keep it loose 

 and clean. Never allow the weeds to get the start 

 of you, for the strength and growth of the grafts 

 depend upon clean and thorough cultivation, as no 

 after treatment will ever restore them. 



In the fall of the year throw a light furrow 

 against the grafts as a partial protection to keep the 

 frost from heaving them out, and also to keep the 

 water from settling aroung the young trees. 



In the following spring, throw the furrow back in 

 its place and cultivate the ground thoroughly, as in 

 the season before. Do not prune back the graftsi 

 or give them any other pruning, as some recom- 

 mend. 



If well cultivated they- will be fit to set out or seU, 

 as many prefer them, but two years old. We prefer 

 cultivating them another season thoroughly before 

 transplanting, except some few of the more rapid 

 growers, which may be set out. This season, as be- 

 fore, do not shorten in, prune or cut off any of the 

 branches. 



Those remaining after the third year require no 

 cultivation except to cut out the weeds, as they are as 

 large as they should be to transplant early, although 

 they may be removed with care and set out success- 

 fully, even of larger 'size ; but it is not advisable to 

 do so. 



Having now raised the trees iH the nursery, we 

 are ready to plant the orchard, for which purpose 

 we should select the most favorable situation. The 

 highest dry land sloping north is the best. North- 

 east and northwest are next, and the south the least 

 desirable — although it may do wh*n no other can 

 be had. 



To prepare the ground for planting the orchard, 

 it should be first thoroughly and very deeply 

 plowed, and then harrowed smooth and level. It 

 may be planted in the spring or fall. In Kansas we 

 prefer the fell, but in extreme latitudes it is better 

 to defer the work until early spring, as soon as the 

 ground will work. If done in the fall it should be 

 soon after the first hard killing frost, and may be ' 

 continued as long as the ground is ojjen and the 

 weather not freezing cold. 



The laying out and arranging of an orchard Is a 

 very important operation, and is seldom properly 

 done, because but few are fully acquainted with the 

 habits and characteristics of trees, or even know 

 best how to obtain and secure the objects desired. 



An error in judgment is not only an error of a 

 lifetime, but that of a generation, and can never be 

 recalled even by commencing anew. There are 

 many difficulties to encounter at the cutset : The 

 distance trees should be planted apart but few agree, 

 in fact, many very widely differ; and as for varieties, 

 they are as varied as the different minds. Even the 

 laying off of an orchard, the depth the trees should 

 be planted, and the manner it should be done, are 

 not fully settled. From so many different opinions 

 and state of confusion, it would appear to be pre- 

 sumption to attempt to reduce them to system, 

 order or harmony. 



The number of trees that a person should plant 

 cannot be given, for much depends upon the means 

 of procuring them, the desire to have them, and 

 the objects in view in planting them. For family 

 nse but few varieties are advisable, and they should 

 ripen in succession and keep up a supply until new 

 fruit comes again. But for commercial purposes 

 you want hardy, productive and showy red apples 

 in their proper season, and a very large proportion 

 winter, and long-keepers. If convenient to a good 

 market a proper share might be summer varieties, 

 but not many fall or sweet apples. 



India Rubber for Grafting. — Some of the 

 English gardeners have successfully used strips of 

 India rubber in the place ol grafting wax, being 

 neater, more perfect, and not soiling the fingers. 

 Sheets are purchased in market for six pence per 

 square foot. They are about as thick as brown 

 paper. They are obtained of the manufacturers of 

 this article before it is applied to muslin and other 

 surfaces. The strips cut from it are about an inch 

 long and the eighth of an inch wide, for small graft- 

 ing, the pieces stretching two or three times their 

 first length. The ends adhere when pressed firmly 

 with the thumb nail, the sheets having been pre- 

 viously washed and wiped dry. It strikes us that 

 these strips would possess advantages over bass in 

 budding, th^ bands yielding with growth and 

 preventing cutting into the bark. — Country Oentk- 



