1872 The Western Pomologist and Gardener. SS 



inner bark) on the end so far as inserted in tlie stock ; wedge the graft so it will he the 

 thickest on the outside to exactly fit the split and match the stock ; place the graft in firmly 

 so when the wedge is removed the stock will hold it securely without tying, with the 

 greater pressure on the outside of the graft (use no wax). If thestock should, split through, 

 cut it off and try again ; if careful, this will seldom happen ; pack the earth around the 

 graft firmly and let but one bud be level with tli surface (never below) ; if too high, mound 

 up the bud. In case you cannot cut off under llu^ ground, the graft can be inserted above, 

 using the same length cion, and bank up the earth firmly to the upper bud. 



It sometimes happens in old wild vines, as well as those cultivated, that the roots branch 

 out at or near the surface of the ground. In such in.stances were we to cut them oft 

 below the surface roots we would loose the full strength of our stocks, therefore in such 

 cases it is best to cut them off above these roots but as near to as convenient and graft the 

 stocks there and bank up as before mentioned. 



If the grafting is done ear]}' in the spring it is best to cover the graft several inches with 

 earth and let it remain until all hard freezing is over, otherwise the frost might lift the 

 grafts out of their places. When all danger is over remove the earth and let the upper 

 bud expand. Never allow a bud to be in a hole to fill with water and mud. Watch and 

 keep the suckers down or they will soon rob the graft, Cultivate well and protect the 

 grafts by tying them up to stakes as fast as they grow. The earlier the work is done the 

 better. 



ITIontlily Observations In Gardening, (ITTli) 



Bt William n. Yeoman, Columbia, Conn. 

 Eds. Pomologist and G.\hdeneb : — In looking over some old books a short time since 

 I came across something of a curiosity, bearing the above title. The book was published 

 just one hundred years ago, and thinking it might interest others as well as myself, I give 

 the same, with its original spelling and superfluity of capital letters: 



Janurtry. 



There is little to be done in Gardens this Month ; but you may gather Sheep's Dung to 

 mix with earth to be rotting a Twelve-month, to lay Flowers with : And you may cut 

 off the downright^Roots of such Trees as yearly bloom, and bear no Fruit, burj'ing a dead 

 Dog or Cat under the Tree ; often casting Soap Suds near the Root, or the Dirt of the 

 Sinks of Wool-Combers or Street Dirt of the Sinks of great Towns. 



Februftrt/. 



If the Frost has killed the Cabbage-plants you set in September, sow the seeds now in 

 a Hot-Bed thus made : Dig a Grave of what Length and Breadth you please, where the 

 Sun shines most, and sheltered from the North and East Winds, about two Feet deep, 

 tread it full of Horse-Litter, with the Dung, and cover the Dung near Half a Foot thick 

 with fat Earth sifted, covering it with Pease-Straw or Mats, only in cold Nights ; the Seeds 

 also of Musk-Melons, Colliflowers, Cucumber.s, Purslain, and Lettice, may be sowed therein. 

 You may now plant the Suckers of Currants, and Gooseberries, though October is the best 

 Time : Sow Garden Pease ; for the Beans set them about one Foot asunder, with a Setting- 

 Stick. 



Mftrch. 



Trim the leaves of Clovegilliflowers with a Pair of Scissors ; sow Parslcj', Carrots and 

 Turnip Seeds, and Parsnips ; and set Carrots and Turnips to raise Seed ; set Onions and 

 Leeks to put the Tops among Pot-Herbs ; prune the Apricot late ; take the Litter from 

 off the Asparagus Bed; dig it with a Pork a little, and sift some good Earth thereon; if 

 you make a new Bed, do it as the hot Bed last Month, and lay the same Roots you may 

 buy of a Gardener on it ; or you may sow the Seeds in a Bed of good Earth, and it may do 

 well enough, so as you take off all Weeds ; and it is not .so tender that it needs covering 

 in Winter, but to fatten the Bed, and cover them by sifting Earth on them, nnd let them 

 Tun to Seed two Years before you cut the Buds to eat ; dig the Weeds and Tops of the 

 Artichoke into the Bed, laying the Earth level, leaving but one or two of the strongest to 



