1872 The Western Pomologist and Gardener. 35 



cause it to overgrow on very rich soil. Tliese are some of its advantages, and for one I 

 can see no disadvantages in it, except it be, that if the Mountain Ash Stoclc is exposed 

 above ground, it is liable to the attacks of the Round Headed Apple Tree Borer (Saperda 

 Biviiata.) This is easily remedied by placing the union of the Pear and Ash just below 

 the surface of the ground. And the Mountain Ash is somewhat liable to throw up suck- 

 ers from around the collar, but never suckering up from the roots. This small fault is of 

 no consequence whatever. 



The European Mountain Ash is a long lived, healthy tree, thirty to forty feet high, a 

 native of Northern Europe, belongs to the same order and genus as the Pear and Apple, 

 but a different sub-genus. The Pear is the type of the genus Pyrus, of the order Rosacea. 

 The so-called Mountain Ash belongs to the sub-genus Sorbus, of the same genus and order. 

 It is the Rowan tree of England, no more related to our Ashes proper than Oaks are. 

 The American Mountain Ash {Pyrus Americana) is a much smaller, slower growing tree 

 of the extreme North, though hardy and long Uved, and is probably of equal value as 

 the European for a stock for the Pear, especially if we wish a more dwarfing stock. The 

 union of the stock and graft is so perfect between the Mountain Ash and Pear as to 

 excite the attention of vegetable physiologists. Perhaps there are no two distinct species 

 making a more perfect union. 



We now come to perhaps the greatest value of the Mountain Ash in propagating the 

 Pear, which is the fact that the pear cau be root-grafted on to its lateral roots with most grat- 

 ifying success. These root-grafts, eventually, if we so wish, give us perfect pear trees on 

 their own tiatural roots. Such trees I think would suit "H. C. R.," or any one else who 

 wanted a perfect standard pear tree. Or, we can so handle them as to give each tree two 

 systems of roots, the Ash roots running horizontally and not deeply, the Pear roots run- 

 ning and feeding below them, the two systems not interfering. Or, we can maintain the 

 tree on the Mountain Ash roots alone, in this way getting a most perfect, hardy-rooted, 

 semi-dwarf tree. Root-grafted in this way, of course there will be no Mt. Ash suckers. By 

 these means we cheapen the propagation of the Pear, and it will not be so expensive " to 

 plant two trees in place of each one that blights." I might give many more best of rea- 

 sons for this mode of propagating the Pear. If any one has objections, let us hear them. 



Treatment of Window Plants. 



I find so many ladies have tried to bloom plants in winter and failed, that if you will 

 permit me I will give a few hints to those interested. First, then, the greatest cause of 

 failure is trying to grow them in too warm a room; next, keeping them in too large pots 

 and over-feeding them. Ladies having no green-houses should only grow those plants 

 most hardy — such as Geraniums, Roses, Feverfew, Sweet Alys.sum, Mignonette, and the 

 blue Browallia, all beautiful, bright and constant bloomers. 



I take my Geraniums up in September ; am careful not to break the roots ; shake all the 

 soil ofl', cut them down to within six inches of the root, pot them In as small a pot as the 

 roots will allow — say three or four inch pots. My soil is turf mold, sand and a little well 

 decayed manure. Feverfews do not need cutting, except to take out the old flower 

 stalk. Sweet Alyssum, if it had been growing all summer, mu.st be cut back. Leave 

 them out doors as long as the weather will admit, then jjlace them in a cool room. If 

 you have an old table you do not care for, nail a four inch board around it to form a 

 sink, and fill it with sand to set your pots in ; it will keep the roots from drying, save 

 watering them, and keep the water from dripping on the floor when you water them. 



If you have a south window, that is just the thing ; mine faces the east. 1 kept them 

 in an upper hall window until I had a green house, and I had them look splendidly all 

 winter. The hall is in the center of the house, and of course quite protected ; but they 

 had no fire. By keeping the plants I have named cool, but not allowing them to freeze, 

 they will do well, (such has been my own experience), and they are easily cared for. — Mrs, 

 S. J. H., in Rural New Yorker. 



