NEW ENGLAND FARMER. 



107 



not only more durable, but to increase the quantity 

 and quality of the fruit. 



The peach-tree, in common with the others named 

 above, is short-lived in our climate ; and in addition 

 to the ravages of the peach worm, and the disease 

 called the yellows, the following may be given as 

 the cause : — 



The tree grows more prolifically here than in 

 Europe, and in each year's growth extends its 

 branches many feet ; the new wood always growing 

 on the ends of the previous year's growth, and the 

 fruit in all cases occurring on the new wood. The 

 weight of the crop, in consequence, is so far removed 

 from the body of the tree, as to render each limb a 

 lever ; and the result is either to split off the branch, 

 or, from its extreme pressure at the point of its inser- 

 tion at the tree, to compress the capillary tubes of 

 the main trunk, and thus destroy its organism. 



The fruit, by this means, is robbed of its necessary 

 pabulum, and prematurely ripens or falls off. The 

 number of fruit-bearing shoots at the same time 

 increase to so^ fearful an extent, that the roots are 

 unable to supply the whole number with sufficient 

 nutriment, and our markets are flooded with half- 

 grown and prematurely ripened peaches. 



If, however, when the tree is young, the shoots 

 are shortened in one half their length each year, the 

 new shoots will occur nearer the parent stock, and 

 with less leverage for its destruction ; the crop of 

 fruit may safely be greater in weight, although less 

 numerous, as the fruit will be larger, and both the 

 health and beauty of the tree will be preserved. 



A dispute arose as to the proper time and manner 

 of performing this shortening-in or trimming pro- 

 cess, and the result was as follows : — 



Time. — During winter, the farmer has most 

 leisure, and the branches cut axe "of so small a size, 

 that no harm will ensue from the effect of frost, nor 

 will the trimming cause any premature swelling of 

 buds, to be injured by spring frosts. 



Manner. — With a very sharp knife, first head 

 down the tree to the required height, so as to be 

 convenient for the gathering of the fruit ; then trim 

 all protruding branches, to improve the symmetrical 

 appearance of the head ; cut out all centre-inclining 

 shoots, which crowd the tree and cannot get the sun ; 

 these should be cut close to the trunk ; then shorten- 

 in all other new growth one half, and if excessive, 

 two thhds, cutting next beyond a wood bud, avoid- 

 ing the fruit buds ; and by this means the new shoot, 

 starting froni that bud, will cover and heal the 

 wound perfectly ; cover the trunk of the tree with a 

 mixture of soft or whale oil soap and potass water or 

 wood ashes ; pour a gallon of boiling water on the 

 trunk near the ground, to kill the peach worm, if any 

 exist in the bark at the surface of the ground; ma- 

 nure the tree with cold manure, muck, or pond 

 mud ; and you may have fine fruit and long-lived 

 trees so long as this treatment be continued. 



Similar treatment was recommended for the other 

 kinds of trees named above, and numerous instances 

 quoted of the advantages which has arisen from the 

 proposed plan. 



This farmers' club, as I suppose it may be called, 

 forms a useful adjunct to the ordinary means of in- 

 formation to be obtained by farmers. A question is 

 chosen, and each person present states what he may 

 know on the subject; and when the conversation 

 flags, some member asks a question, which is sure to 

 elicit an answer from another member ; and thus the 

 experience of all present is collated by each member. 



HOW TO MAKE A HOTBED. 



Every man who has a garden and some knowledge 

 of gardening, and desires a supply of early vegeta- 

 bles, should make a hotbed, in February or March : 



April Avill do in the northern part of the state, and 

 where it is only desired for starting early plants, like 

 tomatoes, peppers, celery, &c. 



An old window sash Avill answer for covering the 

 bed ; but sash made on purpose, without cross-bars, 

 and the glass lapped, is the best. Make a frame of 

 boards or plank, the size of the sash ; or, if sash is 

 made on purpose, let the frame be about four feet 

 wide, and say twelve feet long, with cross-bars where 

 the ashes meet — the fi-ont board about twelve inches 

 wide and the back twenty, to give sufficient slope. 



Select a place for the bed, where it will be fully 

 exposed to the sun, and sheltered from the north and 

 west winds. Mark out the size of the bed, allowing 

 six or eight inches on all sides larger than the frame. 

 Then drive a stake at each corner, as high as you 

 intend to build the bed. Then take fresh stable ma- 

 nure, in a good state of fermentation, and commence 

 building the bed by mixing the manure thoroughly, 

 and putting on successive layers, beating it down 

 with the fork. 



The height of manure requisite will depend on the 

 time at which the bed is formed and the purpose for 

 which it is intended. If made in February or March, 

 and intended for cucumbers, &c., a good deal of heat 

 will be required for two or three months, and about 

 three feet high of manure will be necessary. But a 

 bed made in AprU, for the purpose of forwarding 

 early plants, to be transplanted into the garden, will 

 not requu'e more than half that quantity. 



When the bed is made, put on the fi-ame, and put 

 in about six inches of good fine earth ; put on the 

 sash, and let it remain two or three days for the heat 

 to rise, when it will be ready for sowing. 



The articles usually sown Tn hotbeds are cucum- 

 ber, radish, lettuce, and cress, for early use ; and 

 cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, egg-plant, tomato, 

 pepper, celery, &c. 



It often happens that the heat in the bed will be 

 too strong at first ; in that case the sash must be 

 raised at the back, so as to let the heat and steam es- 

 cape. A mat or old cloth should be placed over the 

 opening to keep out the cold wind. In sunny 

 weather, the sashes must be raised considerably, and, 

 if very warm, the plants should be shaded during 

 the middle of the day. An hour of sunshine will 

 often destroy a whole bed of plants, if the sashes are 

 closed tight. 



In severe weather, mats or straw should be laid 

 over the bed for protection, especially during nights. 

 Keep the bed moist by gentle waterings. The water 

 should stand several hours in one corner of the bed, 

 so as to become a little warm, before being used. As 

 the weather becomes warmer, and the plants increase 

 in size, plenty of air must be admitted. — O. C. 

 Almanac. 



METHOD OF PASTURAGE IN HOLLAND. 



The following economical method of pasturage has 

 long been observed by the Hollanders : When eight 

 cows have been in a pasture so long as completely to 

 eat all the grass they can graze, and of course can 

 no longer obtain their necessary food, thereupon 

 two horses are turned in, and find sufficient food for 

 some days. After these begin to fail of procuring as 

 much as their nature requires, four sheep are intro- 

 duced, and find enoughfor their necessities, and even 

 abundant supply, for weeks. — Pennsylvania Culti- 

 vator. 



WIRE WORMS. 



The Albany Cultivator states that a farmer near 

 Albany has preserved his corn from wire- worms the 

 present season by rolling the seed in sulphur. 



