VOL. XIII 



IVEW EJ^CJIAMD FARMER 



A N D G A R D E N E ir S JOURNAL. 



1'Um.lSHED BY GKORGE C. BARRET T, NO. 52 MORTiTmARKET STrTt^/a — 



^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^» MARKET briJEET, (A ck,cu,.tukal WAR.„ousic.)-T. G. FESSENDEN, EDITOR. 



BOSTON, WEDNESDAY EVENING, MARCH 11, isss" 



■^m^ 3s>AaiiiSa 



[Translated Iron, th. Fred,, for tl.e New England Farmer.) 



CHEESE. 



[Ciintiruied from page 258.] 



or OlIECSES MADE OF MA.-VY DIFFEKE.NT KI.XDS OF 



MILK. 



Those wlio make tlie manufacture of cher-sps 

 their busincs.., and who for lliis i.iiipose, keep sev. 

 eral kinds of animals, which produce milk 'iiich 

 as cow.^ sheep, and goats, could, it appears to n« 

 advantageously ndx the difft'rent milks, to make 

 cheeses. Perhaps by using proper proportions, 

 which experience would determine, cheeses mi»ht 

 be obtained, superior to those made from cow's 

 milk a one. It is known, for example, that the 

 Roquefort cheese of which we shall speak herc- 

 atter IS more delicate, when a little goat's milk is 

 mixed with that of the sheep, of which it is gen'. 

 willy made. Sasseuage cheese made in Dau- 

 phiny, of which we ;u-e going to speak, cnjovs a 

 i«igh reputation, which it merits still more, w'here 

 made of the milk of cows, sheep and goats. 



SAS^.»JAGE CHEESE. 



This cheese is made ofcow'sand sheep's milk 

 nlthough it is not really delicate excepting when 

 a ittle goat's milk is added to the other t«o. 

 These thr^e kinds of milk are mixed in r, y ,.,- 

 Clean kettle, placed over the fire, and when the 

 ^i.xture begins to rise, it is taken off; the whole 

 IS poured lutejarge free-stone vases, to grow cold 

 which it siKMfld not be allowed to do in the kettle' 

 because the milk, by remaining in it, would dis- 

 solve the copper. A east.irou kettle should be 

 used, (and for this purpose alone) when one does 

 lot wish to pour the milk from one vessel to 

 mother. 



The next day, the milk is skimmed, and milk 

 ust taken from the cow, added to it, in proportion 

 > the cream which has been taken oft'. Then 

 le rennet is put in, and the whole stirred unti 

 le milk curdled. AVhen the coagulation is conjl 

 lete, the curd is separated, to allow the whey to 

 m together, which is afterwards poured off. 



The curd is then put into wooden moulds 

 lerced with holes, and which are of the shape 

 id size desired for the cheese. Three hours 

 ter, the curd is turned out ; for that purpose, 

 her moulds of the same dimensions as the first 

 e placed exactly one upon the other, and in 

 raing them over, the cheese changes moulds 

 lis operation is repeated three days in succession. 

 Alter this time, the cheeses have become con- 

 lent, and they are salted. For this purpose, the 

 per part is sprinkled with salt, and as much of 

 ; sides as i)0ssiblc, and when the salt has pcne- 

 ted, the other side is salted in the same manner 

 er having turned the cheese. ' 



When they are sufficientlv salted, they are 

 ccd upon shelves, kept with the most perfect 

 anliness, and there, they are turned morning 

 1 night— changing their places, not to return 

 m to the moisture which thev had communi- 

 |ed to the board. Thus tbey are continued 



NO. 35. 



until ttey are well dry, then they are place.l upon 

 straw, and care is taken to turn them often and to 

 watch them, to clean them from the insects which 

 may attack them. If they are too dry, they are 

 moistCTied a little, in the manner we have men- 

 tioned, page 96. 



OF CHEESES MADE FROM SHEEp's MILK 



The cheesey part is that which predominates 

 in sheep s milk, and majiy more cheeses nii^ht he 

 made Irom it, were this produce more abundant • 

 but these annuals furnish so small a quantity that 

 lu many places, they neglect doing anything with 

 It. It IS this milk which produces the Roquefort 

 cheese— which we shall not here speak of, as we 

 shall only treat of those cheeses of a soft con- 

 sistency. 



OF THE LITTLE CHEESES OF MONTPELIEK 



In the environs of Montpelier, they make small 

 cheeses of sheep's milk, from the time the lambs 

 licgin to eat alone, until towards the month of 

 June, when they cease to milk the sheep. 



All the milk of one "milking" is strained and 

 put in large free-stone jiots. If the weather is 

 cold, the pots are placed in rather a warm ..lace 

 otherwise they are kept in a cool place. The' 

 rennet is mixed with it, and as soon as the milk is 

 turned, the curd is divided with a wooden skim- 

 rtfr and the hands to fiicilifate the .separation of 

 the whey It may be said, that generally the curd 

 of sheei> s milk retains the whey more than any 

 other, and it is necessary, to divide it carefullv to 

 separate it from it. 



After this, the curd is put into moulds pierced 

 with holes, and left to drain. These moulds are 

 generally six inches in diameter and an inch in 

 height. Care should be taken to turn the cheese 

 irom time to time, ujitil it is of a certain consis- 

 tency ; wlien so, it is taken from the mould and 

 placed upon straw, both sides are salted, and it is 

 turned every day. 



Some prefer this cheese when but five or six 

 days old ; others when it is strained, which is 

 done by methods similar to those which we have 

 mentioned. 



goat's milk cheese. 

 Different cheeses, either to be eaten fresh or 

 strained, may be made of goat's milk. We shall 

 only describe the methods used to make those of 

 Mont d'Or and the " Recuites." 



^Vllde the milk is curdling, boxes of fir-wood 

 about lour inches in diameter and two in height 

 ai-e placed upon shelves covered with strfw 

 They resemble those used by confectioners to put 

 sugar-p urns ,n. Tbey are covered with a fine 

 white cloth, and filled with the curd by means of 

 a kind of wooden skimmer. The cheeses are 

 there left to sweat perfectly, and when the whey 

 IS a 1 out they are taken from the boxes with the 

 c oth and placed in this state upon a hurdle of 

 straw There they are salted on the top, and 

 tW3ntyfour hours afterwards, turned in plLdn:. 

 them upon another hurdle ; the cloth is taken 

 of}, and the other side salted. Thus they are 

 turned every day, changing them at the same 

 time from one hurdle to another, which ought 

 always to be kept clean, and care taken to add 

 salt— il there is not swflicient. If the salt leaves 

 any si.ots upon the surface of the cheeses, which 

 sometimes happens, particularly when it l,as not 

 been well cleaned and pounded fine, tliey should 

 I.e taken off by washing them with water In 

 tins state they are placed upon very clean shelves 

 in a place n, ither too dry nor too moist and 

 turned every day. 



When the cheese is to be eaten under a creamy 

 form, It IS put between two round plates which are 

 turned over every day— so that the cheese may be 

 somet^ov^ upo;-a.io side, K<.me.:.„e. upon r.noLr, 

 and left there until it is sufliciently softened 



When, on the contrary, thev are to he kepL 

 tliey are dried as much as possible. ' They are 

 done in this manner to send away, enclosed in flat 

 louna boxes of fir-wood. To be eaten good, they 

 should be soaked in white wine (sack) and softened 

 between two plates, as we have mentioned 



MONT d'oR CHEESE. 



As soon as the goats are milked, the milk is 

 strained, and turned into earthen vessels or fir 

 wood milk-pails. After remaining quiet two or 

 three hours the rennet is mixed with it, by stirrinsr 

 the whole. The curdling does not take place un- 

 til after some hours. 



The rennet is prepared in a particular manner 

 Dissolve in a pint of dry white wine, to which is 

 added two glasses of good white vinegar, an ounce 

 gray salt ; and soak in it a bit of dried pig's 

 bladder. To keep it, care should be taken to put 

 together the quantities of which we have spoken, 

 when the old rennet is half gone. 



RECUITES. 



■ A sniall kind of cheese to be eaten fresh, » 

 made of goat's milk ; they can be prepared a few 

 moments even before serving it for the table, 

 riicy are called " recuites " in Dauphigny. Sev- 

 eral httle forms, containing just enough" for one 

 person, are filled with milk, a very little rennet 

 added, and placed in the "bain-marie," (boiling 

 hot water) where the heat causes the milk to be 

 soon curdled. Thej- are cooled, and served in the 

 forms m which they are made, like little pots of 

 cream. These recuites, which are eaten thus 

 without being separated from the whey are verr' 

 delicate. They may be flavored — and the same 

 may be done with cow's milk. If they are not 

 eaten soon, the whey separates, and they are not 

 srood. 



CARROTS FOR BtJfTER. 



Mr Fessenden— We have been trying th« 

 effect of carrots for butter for several weeks past, 

 agleeably to a suggestion in your paper ofJanu- 

 ary last— our mode has been to take four carrot. 

 of the Altringham kind, of about one and a half 

 inches in diameter to cream enough to make ten 

 pounds of butter, and afier washmg them clean 

 to grate them and cover them with new milk, and 

 after they have stood ten minutes to squeeze them 



