NEW ENGL.AND FARMER, 



AND GARDENER'S JOURNAL. 



PUBLISHED BY GEORGE C. BARRETT, NO. 52, NORTH MARKET STREET, (Agricultural Warehouse.) — T. G. FESSENDEN, EDITOR. 



VOL. XIII. 



BOSTON, WEDNESDAY EVENING, MARCH 18, 1836. 



NO. 36. 



(Translated froiti the French for Uie New England Farmer. I 



[ConcUuled from page 273.] 

 OF CHEESES OF WHICH THE PASTE IS FIRM. 



This cl.ns.s of elieeses is that most generally 

 brought to niarkot, because tlieir duiation and con- 

 sistency render them more capable of transporta- 

 tion ; it is also that, which, properly speaking, is 

 the least interesting for the object which occupies 

 us, its manufacture not being able to be carried 

 on, but under particular circumstances, which are 

 not always under the control of every one. How- 

 ever, we should leave too great a gap in this work 

 were we not to give at least an abstract of the 

 means adopted for fabricating the principal kinds. 



The rennet employed for these different sorts 

 of cheeses, does not differ from that which we 

 have previously mentioned, and tlie manner of 

 application is the same. 



As a general rule, moisture being a principal 

 agent of fermentation which soon produces pu- 

 tridity, it is clear, that the drier the paste of the 

 cheeses is, the longer they will keep ; it is also 

 this object which is sought to be obtained, when 

 the curd already divested of a portion of whey, 

 by the division made in it by cutting it, when cur- 

 dled, with a sort of large wooden knife, and by 

 pressing it hard between the hands, is subjected 

 to the efforts of the press. But when it is to be 

 made, to be kept longer, it must be subjected to a 

 greater degree of heat, which in hastening the 

 cooking, renders the paste more homogeneous. 

 To do this, the superfluous whey is taken from 

 it, and only enough left in the kettle to soak and 

 cook the curd, which is constantly stirred, during 

 this operation, until the lumps have acquired a 

 yellowish tinge and a certain elasticity under the 

 fingers. 



From what we have just said, it results that the 

 cheeses of a firm paste may be divided into two 

 distinct classes ; those which are made by the 

 press, and those which are cooked. 



OF CHEESES PUT UNDER THE PRESS. 



The preliminary operations differ but little from 

 those, we have described for the first class of 

 cheeses. Sometimes the milk is subjected to a 

 greater or less degree of heat, before putting in the 

 rennet : this heat tends to ferment, and to render 

 more prompt and com|)lete the action of the ren- 

 net, and appears especially necessary in the latter 

 part of autumn. Sometimes the curd is left to 

 ferment during several hours, which gives it eyes 

 and gaps produced by bubbles of air. But we 

 will come to the description of these measures ; 

 we shall not mention in this class, any but those 

 adopted for making the cheeses of Auvergne, call- 

 ed Foiirmes, or cheeses of Cautal, that of Holland, 

 the Sept-Mencel and the Roquefort. 



CAUTAL CHEESES. 



These cheeses, of a sofl consistency, gray color, 

 and unsavory flavor, weigh from 50 to 60 pounds ; 



they are in the form of a truncated com; one 

 foot in height and diameter. If we mention 

 them it is not for their good quality, nor to give 

 as a model, the moans employed in making them : 

 it is rather to show their defects. 



As soon as the milk is curdled, it is divided 

 with a kind of wooden sword which is called a 

 " mesadoro," and afterwards mixed together with 

 a small round board pierced with holes and set in 

 the handle ; this is called a " menok ;" the ciu-d is 

 then taken out and |)ut in the "fescelU," a kind of 

 wooden vase pinfeed with several holes, and there 

 it is squeezed as much as possible, afterwards put 

 upon straw in an inclined vessel to let the whey 

 run oft'. 



As soon as they make new cheeses they place 

 them upon the old. 



The cheeses are left thus to ferment, during 48 

 hours. The eflect of this fermentation is to aug- 

 ment their body, and to form eyes, the curd is then 

 ready — and is called " tomme." 



Each "tomme" is broken and kneaded in the 

 " fescelle," salting it in layers and squeezing it as 

 much as possible. The " feuille" is filled and 

 the lower edge of the " fescelle fastened to it, 

 which is likewise filled. The feuille is a beech- 

 wood blade, with which a circle is formed, by 

 drawing together the two ends, which enter the 

 one into the other ; this blade is generally 4i 

 inches wide. Above this is placed the guirlande 

 to support it, and also filled to the brim. The 

 guirlande is a part of a hollow cone about 3 in- 

 ches large ; the diameter of the upper opening i 

 7 inches and that of the lower one 8 inches 

 these proportions, however, vary. The whole is 

 covered with a large towel, and put into the 

 press. This press is formed of a plank fasten 

 ed at one end, against an upright of wood, by 

 means of iron rings ; the fescelle is placed un- 

 derneath, the plank is lowered and loaded with 

 large stones. In this state the cheese sinks, 

 and the feuille and the guirlande enter into the 

 fescelle ; it is thus left for 24 hours, then turn- 

 ed out, and put in again for 12 hours. 



The cheese is then taken to the cellar, when 

 care is taken to moisten it with a cloth .soaked 

 in whey, which runs out of the press, and it is 

 turned every day. When it dries, which shows it 

 has not sufficient salt, more is added. 



This cheese forms a crust, which is taken off 

 at the end of 6 weeks or two months, by scrap- 

 ing it with a knife ; afterward it is rubbed, 

 every three days, with a dry cloth ; three months 

 afterwards, it is in a fit state to be sold. 



These cheeses are almost wholly consumed 

 in the country and they will not keej) longer 

 than si.\ months. If more care was taken in 

 finishing them, they would become, for the prov- 

 ince, a fruitful source of riches. It would first 

 be necessary to give them less body, a more regu- 

 lar form, and a more complete pressure by 

 using a proper press. It would be also essen- 

 tial not to allow it to ferment so long a time, 

 — to salt it by other means and employ purer 



sah, than that generally used ; finally, still more 

 should we recommend greatonjideanline.ss in the 

 cases of the n;ilk and of the utensils, and espec- 

 ially in all the operations of manufacture. There 

 is no doubt, that they might acquire the qualities 

 which distinguish the Dutch cheese; we say thi.-< 

 is not impossible, since the Sept-Montcel, made in 

 Jurn, very nearly resembles it. 



DUTCH CHEESE. 



This cheese, of which considerable is imported 

 into France, not so much for interior consumption . 

 as for maritime stocks, keei>s a long time, some- 

 times more than a year. Nevertheless, the manu 

 facture of it is not difficult, and differs only by 

 more care and in the .seasoning, from that of Cautal. 



After the milk is curdled, it is put to sweat in 

 the forms ; when it has acquired a certain consi.s- 

 tencj-, it is taken out, and kneaded a long time, in 

 strong salted water ; it is then put under the 

 press, and this operation is renewed two or three 

 times in 8 days. 



Let us here remark that this manner of salting 

 the curd, presents great advantages. It introduces 

 the salt equally throughout, without the inconve- 

 nience which the use of the salt alone presents, 

 which is often to spot the curd, by the earthy par- 

 ticles it contains. But what is still better in this 

 method, is beside a more perfect seasoning, a way 

 is found out, of taking away, by the washing, the 

 most adhesive whey, from the curd, and which 

 otherwise coidd not be separated from it, and we 

 have already said, that the less watery the cheese 

 is, the longer it will keep. 



SEPT-MONTCEL. 



It is at Sept-Montcel, department of Jura, that 

 the cheese is made, which resembles the Dutch ; it 

 is made very nearly in the same manner. It is 

 very much esteemed at Lyons, where most of it 

 is consumed. 



ROQUEFORT CHEESE. 



This cheese, which bears the name of the 

 place, where it is made, is highly esteemed. 

 The season for making it, is from the month of 

 July until the end of September, although the 

 milk ceases to be abundant at the end of July, 

 that is to say, that until then two milkings furnish 

 daily, three quarters of a pound, and after tills 

 time the quantity diminishes. 



As soon as the ))ti7A:i?io- is finished, the milk is 

 turned into a kettle, passing it through a sieve; 

 then the rennet is put in, which is generally made 

 from a kid of a few days old, by putting a piece 

 into fresh water, or whey, and renewing it every 

 1.5 days. 



When the curd is formed, the mass is broken 

 with the hand ; afterwards it is crowded down at 

 the bottom of the kettle, and the whey skimmed 

 oft"; the curd is then put into the mould. This 

 mould, made of oak, is pierced with holes, and is 

 from 8 to 10 inches in diameter, and 6 to 8 in- 

 ches high. 



The curd is kneaded in putting it into the mould, 

 which is filled above the edge, crowding down the 



