288 AN OCTOBER ABROAD. 



and lowering, and just before entering Conway we 

 had a very striking view. A turn in the road sud- 

 denly brought us to where we looked through a 

 black frame-work of heathery hills, and beheld Snow- 

 don and his chiefs apparently with the full rigors of 

 winter upon them. It was so satisfying that I lost 

 at once my desire to tramp up them. I barely had 

 time to turn from the mountains to get a view of 

 Conway Castle, one of the largest and most impres- 

 sive ruins I saw. The train cuts close to the great 

 round tower, and plunges through the wall of gray, 

 shelving stone into the bluff beyond, giving the 

 traveler only time to glance and marvel. 



About the only glimpse I got of the Welsh charac- 

 ter was on this route. At one of the stations, Aber- 

 gele, I think, a fresh, blooming young woman got into 

 our compartment, occupied by myself and two com- 

 mercial travelers (bag-men, or, as we say, " drum- 

 mers."), and before she could take her seat was com- 

 plimented by one of them on her good looks. Feeling 

 in a measure responsible for the honor and good 

 breeding of the compartment, I could hardly conceal 

 my embarrassment; but the young Abergeless her- 

 self did not seem to take it amiss, and when presently 

 the jolly bag-man addressed his conversation to her, 

 replied beseemingly and good-naturedly. As she 

 arose to leave the car at her destination, a few stations 

 beyond, he said " he thought it a pity that such a 

 sweet, pretty girl should leave us so soon," and seiz- 

 ing her hand the audacious rascal actually solicited a 



