TRAVELLED ROUTES TO LABRADOR 39 



dred calls on the round trip, the traveller can learn much 

 without leaving her. But if he wishes really to see Lab- 

 rador, he must be willing to give more time to it than the 

 mere hurried round trip of the mail steamers can afford 

 him. These steamers remain but a very short time at each 

 place, and do not visit the long and almost unknown 

 fiords which constitute one of the chief attractions of the 

 coast. To go where perhaps the foot of man has never 

 trod, to wind in and out at leisure among the countless 

 turns and twists of these inlets, never knowing what one 

 is likely to meet with next, adds a great charm to a holiday 

 and a freshness which long since has been lost by most 

 summer resorts. The wildest, least known, and by far the 

 grandest fiords are all north of Nain; in order to attain a 

 true appreciation of scenic Labrador, one ought to begin 

 where at present the average visitor is obliged to turn back 

 with the mail steamer. 



Thus to enjoy the best that Labrador has to offer, and 

 to study the remarkable features which among all the 

 coasts near to civilization are peculiar to "the Labrador," 

 one must be able to linger at will in the long fiords, push 

 up these still unnamed and almost unknown arms of the 

 sea, and discover for oneself new coves and inlets as he 

 coasts along them. In a few, but only a very few, of the 

 northern bays and fiords one may occasionally find a 

 solitary salmon fisherman. Generally the visitor may en- 

 joy with Robinson Crusoe the joy of being monarch of all 

 he surveys. Not a policeman, nor a warning "not to tres- 

 pass" will be encountered. No advertising fiend has yet 

 succeeded in defacing these refreshing wilds. 



In Labrador there are no hotels in the ordinary meaning 



