Top-working Fruit Trees 163 



below; and if growth becomes too heavy, these secondary 

 branches may need cutting back before the season is over. 

 This pruning insures stockiness of the new growth and 

 throws much of the energies of the top into a good union. 



The growth of suckers or watersprouts from the stock 

 should not be allowed to any great extent. Should the 

 stubs be exposed to the direct rays of the sun it is well 

 to leave some of this growth, pinching it back to cause 

 it to form a dense shade. Unless needed for protection, 

 .. it is well to rub the sprouts off as fast as they appear. 



The following spring the system of pruning should 

 resemble very much that of pruning young trees. The 

 grafts should usually be cut back to not over eighteen 

 inches in length. They may be cut even shorter if the 

 growth has not been satisfactory. If all three buds have 

 started from a cion, it is well to remove all but one to 

 avoid crowding. As a rule, the growth from the lowest 

 bud will be the strongest and should be retained. Should 

 the formation of the top allow it, a second growth may 

 be left. If the grafts have been set close in near the head 

 of the tree, they will require some pruning for the purpose 

 of spreading the top. The general tendency is for the 

 top-worked tree to grow too compact. Cut the grafts 

 back to one of the strong outside branches started by the 

 first pinching-back and it will give them a start in the right 

 direction. 



When two cions start in the same stub and the stub 

 is less than three inches in diameter, one should be re- 

 moved. Keep the stronger, or if there should be little 

 difference, the one best situated to help make a good 

 top. Cut the other off close, even to removing a small 



