Top-working Fruit Trees 169 



enough the previous September, so that one really gains 

 rather than loses time by budding in the fall. Most 

 budding is done in the fall. 



In fall budding, the buds are taken from the current 

 year's growth. Buds may be inserted in wood of one, 

 two, or three years' growth. The stiffness of the bark 

 of the older wood makes budding difficult. The heavy 

 .bark not only makes the insertion of the bud difficult, 

 but in drying out it curls away from the bud and exposes 

 it to the air. The position for the bud is chosen with 

 reference to the prevailing wind, protection from the sun's 

 rays, or best to form the top of the tree. It is well to 

 place the bud on the shady side of the stock, if possible. 

 Should the locality be subject to strong prevailing winds, 

 the bud will withstand more wind if placed on the side 

 of the stock toward the wind. 



The simplest form of budding is that known as shield- 

 budding or T-budding. A T-shaped incision is made in 

 the bark and the corners of the bark beiow the transverse 

 cut raised to facilitate starting the bud into the opening. 

 The bud is then cut from the bud-stick by starting the knife 

 half an inch below the bud, cutting under and to about 

 the same distance above the bud. This gives a long bud, 

 which is especially desirable in our dry climate. In cut- 

 ting under the bud, the knife should be run deep enough 

 to leave a small shield of wood. Figure 55 shows the 

 various steps in the process of shield-budding (which is 

 the usual mode). 



A simpler method of lifting the bud, at least for the 

 beginner, is to start the knife as before, and cut sharply 

 into the wood to about one-third the diameter of the stick 



