1914 Fl JIT ITS OF ONTAHIO. 19 



Barnyard manure supplies nitrogen, potash, and phosphoric acid, and improves 

 the physical condition of the soil. Cover crops may take the place of barnyard manure 

 to improve the physical condition of the soil, and the leguminous ones may add all the 

 nitrogen required. Concentrated fertilizers or commercial plant foods may be used 

 in conjunction with cover crops to supply all the plant food necessary for the growth 

 of trees. In the use of commercial fertilizers it is well to proceed cautiously, and, by 

 carefully conducted experiments, ascertain what elements of plant food the soil may be 

 deficient in, and what amounts it may be necessary to apply to get the best results. 

 Unleached wood ashes contain a small quantity of phosphoric acid, seldom exceeding 

 l l / 2 per cent., a larger amount of potash, varying from 5 to 7 per cent., and also a cer- 

 tain amount of lime. Where pure wood ashes can be procured at a price not exceeding 

 ten cents per bushel, they afford an economical source of plant food. An application 

 once in two or three years will usually give excellent results, especially on light soils 

 which are most lacking in potash. Muriate of potash is another economical form in 

 which to obtain potash. Phosphoric acid may be purchased in the form of superphos- 

 phate. Nitrogen may be procured in the form of sodium nitrate, but leguminous cover 

 crops furnish a much cheaper source of this essential but costly element. 



PRUNING. 



The object of pruning is to form a vigorous and evenly balanced tree, which will 

 produce annually a paying crop of good-sized, well-colored fruit. Unpruned trees pro- 

 duce many small-sized unsalable apples. Pruning lessens the number of apples per 

 tree, but at the same time increases the size and improves the quality of those pro- 

 duced. A heavy crop of good-sized fruit is not so serious a drain on the vitality of the 

 tree, nor on the fertility of the soil, as the same weight of smaller apples would be, for 

 it is the production of the seed which makes the greatest drain on the tree and soil. 



Pruning should be practised every year without fail from the time the tree is 

 planted. In this way the operation is never a severe one, and the removal of the large 

 limbs becomes unnecessary. Limbs growing too strongly in any particular direction, 

 which are liable to upset the balance of the tree, should be headed back. Where two 

 limbs cross, one of them should be removed. Branches growing across, from one side 

 to the other, should be cut out. Care should be taken to leave sufficient twigs in the 

 centre to protect from sun scald. Much may be done in directing growth by heading 

 back to a bud pointing in the desired direction. It is while the trees are young that 

 the greatest care in training is required. 



A properly pruned apple tree should be open enough to admit sunlight and permit 

 of free circulation of air. Its lower branches should be trained high enough to admit 

 of easy cultivation, yet the top should not be so high that spraying and harvesting are 

 rendered difficult. Varieties differ more or less in their habit of growth, and, while 

 it may be advisable to modify this to some extent, it is not well to attempt to change 

 it unduly. Long bare branches should be avoided, and the formation of fruit spurs 

 should be encouraged on all parts of the tree. 



The best time for pruning is just before growth begins. Wounds made at that 

 season soon heal over. It is not well to prune when there is frost on the wood. Prun- 

 ing while the tree is dormant tends to increase the growth of wood. Summer pruning 

 encourages the formation of fruit buds, but it is not advisable to do much of it, as the 

 removal of any considerable amount of the leaf area tends to check the vigor of the 

 tree. Pruning by the removal of buds may be practised at any season of the year. 



The thumb and finger may be used for the removal of sprouts and buds during the 

 summer. A pair of small pruning shears will remove all twigs less than half an inch 

 in diameter. For larger limbs a sharp fine-tooth saw is needed. Make all cuts as 

 smooth as possible and close to the main stem. When a large limb has to be removed, 

 it may be advisable to cut twice, the first some inches out to avoid splitting, and the 

 second to shorten the stub. A common mistake is the leaving of long stubs which 



