206 FOREST PLANTING. 



seed, covering them with the hand-rake, and plant the 

 latter — when one or two years old — three feet distant 

 from each other, in horizontally running rows, six feet 

 apart, nsing no other tool but the (in Part I.) described 

 short-liandled planting axe. Those trees which repro- 

 duce themselves from the stumps should, after having 

 grown two or three years, be pruned down so as to leave 

 only a short stump, as by this process the roots will be 

 increased in numbers and strength, and thus the final 

 purpose of the culture of these protective trees will be 

 reached in a comparatively short time. 



As soon as the soil has become more compact and the 

 trees in the rows have grown thick enough to afford 

 some protection against the wind and sun rays we can 

 begin planting forest-trees. In selecting these we must 

 pick out those kinds that have strong tap roots, which 

 will run deep into the loose soil and contribute to 

 further strengthen and bind it. To this class of trees 

 belong: oak, pine, fir, larch. They have to be planted, 

 when two or three years old, three feet apart between 

 the above-mentioned (protective) rows by means of the 

 planting-axe. Should the sward be uncommonly thick, 

 there should be dug, at the proper places, j)lant holes in 

 which to set the trees. In case the sward be very thin, 

 it is advisable to open the jDlant holes with the hoe, fill 

 them with some good humus soil or compost, and plant 

 therein by hand the trees, putting around them stones 

 or sods as a mulch for keeping the moisture in the soil. 

 But in such case we cannot use trees with large tap roots, 

 we must have recourse to other kinds which form only 

 lateral roots, as, for instance, beech, hornbeam, and par- 

 ticularly spruce hemlock. Should there exist spots, on 

 which no vegetable growth at all is found, they should be 

 left alone, as the time will come when the shade and 

 protection furnished by the surrounding forest vegeta- 



