AN AFRICAN E L E PH AN T- H U N T 



waste again. This growth consisted of a thick tangle of rank 

 vegetation, sometimes attaining a height of twelve feet, and 

 almost impenetrable. While occasionally it was absolutely im- 

 passable to man, and a quarter of a mile an hour would be a 

 good average rate of progress through it, the elephants roamed 

 around in it with comparative ease, crushing down the bush by 

 their great weight. Higher up on the slopes of Mount Kenia 

 were thick bamboo forests, in which most of the elephants were 

 supposed to range at this season of the year, but we did not 

 reach this altitude during our hunting. The com and millet 

 fields and banana-groves of the Meru were scattered through 

 this country, and there was a continual and one-sided struggle 

 between the natives and the rank vegetation, with the odds 

 heavily in favor of the vegetation. Over the whole region there 

 roamed a few herds of elephants, keeping generally in the 

 forests and bush, but occasionally breaking out and doing 

 great damage to the fields of the natives. They seemed to be 

 practically the only large game in the country, although bird 

 life was quite plentiful. During the sixteen days we spent 

 hunting in this region the only game we got sight of, besides 

 elephants, were a cow and calf rhinoceros. Two hyenas visited 

 the camp one night, and monkeys were often heard but seldom 

 seen. Several times we found the tracks of a small species of 

 forest antelope. 



One afternoon we pitched our camp in a large clearing in 

 which some Swahili ivory -traders had permanently established 

 themselves. The country surrounding this settlement belonged 

 to three native chiefs. On our arrival all three were prompt to 

 visit our camp, bringing presents of bananas and beans and a 

 few emaciated goats, sheep, and fowls. Of course, it followed 

 that they expected more expensive gifts in return. In the Afri- 

 can usage, the joke is always on the traveller. One of these 

 chiefs, whose native name I have forgotten, but whom we always 

 referred to familiarly as the "Emperor," owing to the fact that 



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