202 RAW OR GREEN COFFEES. 



color produced by the process, by their light weight and 

 irregular, unsightly appearance in the hand as well as by 

 their nauseous, almost sickening flavor, developed by the 

 volatile oil and the zinc, and which is evidently prejudicial 

 to the health of the consumer. 



Mocha Coffee. — Probably there is no single variety 

 of coffee grown more generally counterfeited or adulter- 

 ated than Mocha in the raw or unroasted state, owing to 

 its limited supply and high commercial value. In addi- 

 tion to the manipulation and substitution which it under- 

 goes at the ports of export, by the addition or substitution 

 of small-bean Wynaad, Malabar, Ceylon, Bourbon and 

 other African varieties annually shipped to Aden for the 

 specific purpose of conversion into Mocha, that it has 

 become a difficult matter to determine what is true 

 Mocha and what is not. The substitutes are first 

 separated from the regular crops and then carefully 

 picked over and assorted by hand, the better to adapt 

 them to their respective markets, and then packed in the 

 unique and peculiar packages which distinguish the true 

 article from all others. It had at one time been con- 

 sidered as next to impossible to tamper with or imitate 

 these packages without detection, composed as they are 

 of a coarse vegetable material, sewed with a fibrous sub- 

 stance that becomes excessively hard and tough by age ; 

 but modern ingenuity has found a way in the countries 

 of consumption to cut this " Gordian knot," first by a 

 process known to the initiated as " stove-piping," by 

 which a portion of the genuine coffee is run out of the 

 original package with an iron tube resembling a " coffee 

 tryer," inserted at one end of the bale and a spurious 

 article composed of some small-bean variety, such as 

 Santos, Maracaibo or Guatemala, poured in its place and 



