16G 



NEW ENGLAND FARMER. 



April 



should be cut in the bottom board and slant up 

 into the hive. This gives the ])ees a better chance 

 to defend themselves, and keeps the water from 

 miming into the hive. The fly-liolc should face the 

 west, summer and winter. If it faces the south or 

 east in summer, the bees arc tempted out too early 

 and get wet with dew, and fall to the ground and 

 perish. In winter, the sxm shining on the fly-board 

 excites the bees, causing them to sweat, and in- 

 creasing the liability to freeze and perish on the 

 return of cold. Both fly-holes should be closed in 

 winter I)y tacking tin over them with little holes 

 made througli it. n. s., jr. 



Fcbruanj 4, 1867. 



When storm-floud, with its flakey wing. 

 Veils noon-tide ray to half a night, 



And darkness, with its snow-hid track, 

 An hour too early shuts the liglit; 



From outer world and work we come 



To the defences of our home. 



Crackling fire and hearts contented; 



All the armor that we need ; 

 Busy group with cheerful faces 



Listens what the dame may read ; 

 80 glad the "PARMEn" came the day 

 Before the snow-storm blocked the way. 

 Vermont, 1807. k. k. 



THE SICK COCKERTJL. 



I noticed an inquiry concerning a rooster which 

 had lost the use of his legs, and would recommend 

 that he be kept in a moderately warm i^lace, and 

 fed three times a day with a dough made of one 

 pint of Indian meal and one teaspoonful of red 

 pepper. Also rub his legs with camphor once a 

 day, and I think he will get well soon. 



A. L. Barnes. 



South Barre, Vt., Feb. 18, 1867. 



CURE FOR CHILBLAINS. 



"Wet the stocking over the parts affected with 

 spirits of turpcniine, and wear as usual. My 

 neighliors have tried it with good success. 



Benj. Sargent. 



Grantham, X. 77. Feb. 5, 1867. 



Remarks. — We think it would be well to be 

 careful about the quantitj' used in "wetting the 

 stocking." 



CULTIVATION OF CRANBERRIES. 



In reply to "E. E. A." I would say that to grow 

 cranberries you want, in the lirst place, a meado^^' 

 that you can flow in a few hours in the fall of the 

 year to keep the frost off. If you have not got this, 

 you can raise them without water. If you have 

 the water, make your meadow as level as you can, 

 so as to re(iaire as little water as possiljleto cover 

 it. Then tlitch it dry and take olf the top surface, 

 or turf it as it is called. After this spread on sand, 

 not gravel, two or three inches thick. When you 

 select your vines get those that bear from the root 

 to the end of the vines, not those that l)ear on top 

 only, and set them out in rows two feet by six. 

 They should l)e hoed so as to keep the weeds out 

 until the vines cover the ground. n. s., jr. 



Milford, Mass., Jan. 8, 1867. 



Remarks. — The use of water is about as impor- 

 tant in the spring, to prevent frosts, or in the early 

 summer, to destroy the eggs of the insect that in- 

 fests them. This insect is very much like the com- 

 mon apple worm. It attacks the neic growth at or 

 about the time of blossoming, commencing at the 



base of the new and working upwards. Its pres- 

 ence may be known by the appearance of a fine 

 web which encircles the upper portion of the plant. 

 The Fruit Worm is the most destructive, making 

 its attack on the berry aljout the last of July or the 

 beginning of August. This is another time when 

 the use of the water is important, and, indeed, is 

 the only remedy known to save the vines and fruit 

 from these two insects. But the flooding must be 

 done with care. If the weather is hot, it will not 

 do to leave the water on long, as it will become 

 warm and rot the vines. From 21 to -18 hours will 

 pro) jably be enough to drown out the insects. The 

 temperature of the water must be tested by placing 

 the hand in it. The appearance of the web, spoken 

 of above, will indicate the time for flooding. 



The plan suggested by our correspondent seems 

 to us a judicious one. See an article in another 

 column on the subject. 



grafting. 



Will you please inform me through your valua- 

 ble jjajjcr how and when to graft apple trees, what 

 time of the year to cut scions, how to make graft- 

 ing wax, whether it would be best to graft old trees 

 that are in a good condition, and if it would be 

 Ijcst to scrape the rough bark from old trees, and 

 when to do it ? A Subscriber. 



Remarks. — There are various styles of grafting, 

 but the "Cleft," as seen in the margin, is the most 

 common. Mr. Cole, in his Fruit Book, gives the 

 following directions : — 



"Saw off the stock with a fine saw, and pare 

 smoothly with a sharp knife; then split the stock 

 with the grafting-knife, and open it wiih the wedge 

 on the same. Or a common knife and a wooden 

 wedge may lie used. Sharpen the scion on both 

 sides, with a straight scarf like a wedge; let the 

 scarf be aljout 1,'a inches long, more or less, accord- 

 ing to the size of the scion and the splitting of the 

 stock, making the scarf of the scion as long as it 

 can 1)0 conveniently fitted to the stock. It is best 

 for the stock to cover, or almost cover, 

 the scarfs on the scion. The outer part 

 of the scion should be slightly thicker, 

 to nuike a close fit there. Leave two 

 hulls on the scion, setting the lower buds 

 jiist below the top of the stock. Adjust 

 the scion so that the joint between the 

 hark and wood, in the stock and scion, 

 ,\ ill exactly correspond; this is import- 

 ant, as that is the place of union between 

 ilicm. Tliis done, withdraw the wedge, 

 and iipply the cement or clay. In cut- 

 ting scions, reject the butt, as the buds start re- 

 luctantly or not at all, ami reject the top also, as it 

 is too scSft, or may be winter-killed. 



Scions may be cut at any time from November 

 to the time when the buds begin to swell in the 

 spring. The best time, perhaps, is a few weeks 

 before setting and the swelling of the buds. They 

 must l)e kept moist, by rolling in a damp cloth and 

 laid in the cellar. April and May are the usual 

 months for grafting. 



To make grafting wax, take 1 part good beef tal- 

 low, 2 parts beeswax, 4 parts white, transparent 

 rosin, melt all together, turn into cold water, and 

 work and pull it thoroughly, as shoemaker's wax. 



