72 A EOUGH JOUENEY. 



for a long time was doubtful, until the strength of one 

 appeared to be failing, and then, turning tail, he galloped 

 off, followed by his conqueror. Finding that the sun had 

 moved a considerable distance while I was engaged in 

 watching the bull-fight, I pushed on faster than the usual 

 African travelling-pace, and found, before twelve miles 

 were ridden, that my horse appeared much distressed. The 

 day was intensely hot, and I thought an " off-saddle " for 

 half an hour might refresh the animal ; but upon again 

 starting I found it difficult to spur even a trot out of him. 

 I dismounted and tried to lead him, but found he was one 

 of those brutes that will not follow. He stuck his head 

 out as I drew the reins tight, but would not stir an inch. 

 Remounting, I managed to hustle him along at a smart 

 walk; but even this I did not accomplish without con- 

 siderable manual and spur labour. I had nearly five 

 miles before me, and the sun was within half an hour of 

 setting. Had the night been fine, a ride would have been 

 pleasant during the moonlight ; but the dark heavy clouds 

 that were gathering round, and a drop of rain that fell 

 occasionally, gave earnest of a coming storm. No house or 

 resting-place was there on the road, except that for which 

 I was making my way, and Botha's, which latter was five 

 miles farther. I reached Stony Hill soon after dark, and 

 was preparing to dismount at the door of the inn, near 

 which I noticed two waggons; when the man who kept 

 the establishment came out, and said, " Who's that 1" I 

 told him that I wanted a dinner, a bed, and stabling. I 

 heard him make a remark in Dutch to some person within 

 the building, and distinguished "verdamt Englishmensch" 



