A Day in Chitral 5 



dered turbans and high Afghan boots. They are 

 excellently mounted on the breedy-looking animals 

 that are imported from Badakshan, and are known 

 by this name, though actually bred in the Khatgan 

 district of Afghan Turkestan. At a short distance 

 behind are the men-at-arms forming the Mehtar's 

 bodyguard, an irregular lot of footmen armed 

 with Snider rifles, and dressed each one according 

 to his own fancy. The mir-sliikar, or head fal- 

 coner, is also here with a peregrine on his fist, and 

 another attendant with a leash of greyhounds, 

 the " Tazi " hounds that used to form part of the 

 tribute to the Suzerain State of Kashmir. Most 

 gorgeous of all, perhaps, is the court tailor, who 

 has evidently been given carte blanche in the 

 framing of his own dress regulations, and had 

 accordingly run riot in gold lace and brass 

 fittings. 



After the usual salutations and inquiries we 

 started off on the short march to the next camp, 

 preceded by the pipes, which echoed and re- 

 echoed through the valley in the cold morning 

 air. As to the road itself, it was as bad as 

 Chitrali roads usually are. About a foot broad, 

 up hills so steep that a firm grasp of the mane 

 is not only an assistance but a necessity, and 

 down hills at such an angle that there appears 

 nothing in front but an empty void ; often one 



