A Day in Chitral 7 



A joyous land, 



Where waters gushed and fruit-trees grew, 

 And flowers put forth a fairer hue. 



It was along such a road that our cavalcade wound 

 through the country-side. In the van were the 

 drums and pipes, the Mehtar ; s bodyguard follow- 

 ing ; all playing in turn and keeping up a song 

 with chorus, one after another taking up the air. 

 This lasted from start to finish. 



"The players go before, the minstrels follow 

 after." In the midst, unfortunately, were no 

 "damsels playing on timbrels." A few years 

 ago there might have been, but the retirement 

 of the ladies of Chitral from public view took 

 place almost simultaneously with the appearance 

 of an Indian force of occupation in the country. 

 The introduction of the purdah system into 

 Chitral was in fact the first sign of the disap- 

 pearance of local colour and customs, which is 

 bound to take place. 



The time and tune kept by our minstrels were 

 excellent, and though the air was Oriental the 

 effect some little distance behind was not un- 

 pleasing. When the nature of the ground per- 

 mitted, one or two of them would step aside and 

 execute a pas on the side of the road. One 

 magnificent young chap with a jolly sunburnt 

 face, black eyes, red lips, and a wide laughing 



