60 Sport and Life in the Further Himalaya 



the natural beauties of which present an extra- 

 ordinary contrast to the ugliness and dirt of the 

 inhabitants. 



The Lechir fort itself presented an aspect of 

 dreariness it would be hard to match anywhere. 

 The only green things visible were a few young 

 poplars planted by the side of the stream issuing 

 from a narrow rift opposite the fort, and these 

 only seemed to make the desolation of bare 

 mountains, rocks, and sand appear the more 

 desolate. The place, however, was tolerable at 

 this time of year. It is in the summer months, 

 when a hot wind tears up and down, raising 

 the dust in clouds, that the Indus valley really 

 becomes Jahannam. Then, in addition to scorch- 

 ing dust -laden winds, the unwilling traveller 

 (for no one would be found there at this season 

 who could possibly avoid it) is tormented by 

 a peculiarly obnoxious pest known as the " Chilas 

 fly." This insect has a detestable way of un- 

 ostentatiously settling on an exposed part, and 

 driving in so small a poisoned sting that the 

 prick is not felt ; but when gone he leaves an 

 intensely irritating blister to remember him by. 

 His operations last till sundown, when his place 

 is taken by the midge bearing the name of 

 " sand-fly," which after his own manner makes 

 sleep impossible. The impression that one has 



