The Orpiment Mines of Chitral 149 



snow, we began an arduous ascent on the other 

 side. After another hour's climb we came to 

 a confused and distorted mass of shaly rock. 

 Shortly afterwards we heard the sound of picks, 

 and came upon thirty or forty men at work. 

 This was a new mine and they had only got 

 a few feet into the rock, and so far had not 

 struck orpiment. The old mines were higher 

 up, so on we went. After climbing three or 

 four hundred feet we came to a rude shelter, 

 built of juniper - branches and perched on a 

 most airy eminence. Here a fire was burning. 

 My thoughtful guide had provided tea, which 

 was now ready, green tea simmering away on 

 the fire in a tin cofiee-pot. We all sat down 

 on stones, sugar was produced, and three little 

 rusty tin mugs. My host poured out a cup, 

 put in a lump of sugar, stirred it up with his 

 finger, and handed it to me. Having long 

 since learnt the folly of fastidiousness, and 

 very thirsty after our hot climb, I drank it 

 and two more cups on end and found it ex- 

 cellent. My host did likewise, after which a 

 few of the miners were presented with half a 

 cup each. The pot empty, mine host emptied 

 the green tea -leaves, looking like boiled cab- 

 bage, into his hand, swallowed three - quarters 

 himself, and divided the remaining quarter be- 



