On the "Roof of the World " 159 



long snow-filled valley which leads to the Tagdam- 

 bash Pamir, another trying day in snow which 

 became soft before noon. Many of my porters, 

 sturdy men from Hunza, were suffering from 

 snow-blindness, so periodic halts were called to 

 drop into their eyes some cocaine solution which 

 I had included in my small medicine-case. For 

 my own part, though my eyes were not affected, 

 the glare of the snow, combined with the cold 

 wind, had made my face and lips swell and chap 

 to such an extent that I doubt if my dearest 

 friend would have recognised me. I was not 

 sorry, therefore, when the distant barking of dogs 

 indicated human habitations. These presently 

 came in sight, though still far away, in the shape 

 of a Khirgiz encampment a few dome-shaped 

 tents pitched on the side of the valley where 

 black streaks showed the snow was beginning 

 to melt. Coming nearer, some children dis- 

 appeared inside, and an old Khirgiz patriarch 

 with flowing beard came out and took us in. 

 Never shall I forget the welcome of those tent- 

 dwellers. Chinese tea in blue porcelain cups, hot 

 bread, curds and clotted cream in wooden bowls, 

 were served by the kindly women of the house- 

 hold, who bustled in and out of the little 

 andarun, or females' apartment, and the adjoining 

 kitchen with real anxiety for their guests' com- 



