178 Sport and Life in the Further Himalaya 



of upper storeys, all was darkness. Now and 

 again a warm laden air and the whinny and 

 stamps of mules advised us of the vicinity 

 of a traders' sarai, and peeping into one of 

 them we saw the recumbent figures of mule- 

 teers sleeping near their charges, and a group 

 of fur -clad traders sitting over the embers of 

 a fire discussing the day's sales. Dark figures, 

 whose sex it was impossible to guess, now and 

 again flitted across our path and disappeared, 

 and the whole breathed the mystery of an 

 Eastern city at night. 



Presently we found ourselves passing through 

 a gateway; trees rose about us, and we inhaled 

 the heavy scent of flowers. Then another gate, 

 and we were in a large courtyard crowded with 

 people of both sexes. The enclosure was lighted 

 up by a huge fire of logs in the centre. Kound 

 it a square space formed a stage, of which the 

 audience occupied three sides. On the fourth 

 side was a row of chairs under an awning to 

 which the Wazir ceremoniously conducted us. 

 In front burnt a huge brass seven - branched 

 candlestick, and on the table supporting it 

 were arranged dishes of sweetmeats and, in 

 deference to European taste, a box of Egyptian 

 cigarettes. 



The music immediately began. The performers 



