Leh 195 



and, surrounded by lamas with smoking censers, 

 rushed wildly through the crowd uttering Sibyl- 

 line prophecies. He then mounted the steps of 

 the monastery. This edifice was on a high crag, 

 the escarpment of the perpendicular rock being 

 continued without a break by the monastery wall 

 to a dizzy height. On its summit was believed 

 to dwell a Lha, one of those spirits that live on 

 the high peaks above the clouds, but sometimes 

 descend to the habitations of men. From the 

 steps, the madman leapt on to the monastery wall, 

 which ascended to the topmost tower. The band 

 played deafeningly. Higher and higher he went, 

 till, just before he reached the summit, the music 

 stopped, and there was a hush over the crowd. 

 Irresistibly my mind fled back. I was again in 

 a London " Hall," and it was the moment before 

 the high dive ! The madman disappeared behind 

 a corner. Then a dark figure became visible on 

 the giddy summit, and, without pause or falter, 

 passed on. The Lha had protected his own. 

 Then the people yelled, the band filled their 

 lungs with air, and in another minute he was 

 descended among the people, had burst through 

 them, and was once more immured in his cell. 



In this country of delightful incongruities, even 

 officialdom makes a concession to the spirit of the 

 people. Have I not seen with mine own eyes 



