The Lapchak 243 



live at a height where breathing is itself a burden 

 to the normally constituted, in a country where 

 cereals and timber are not, and the only vegeta- 

 tion is the coarse grass and burtsa, which grows 

 sparingly on the hillsides and valleys. Even this 

 latter is not always obtainable, and then they have 

 to depend for fuel, in a climate where the ther- 

 mometer frequently falls many degrees below zero, 

 on dry droppings of yak and sheep. The cold of 

 these regions is intensified by bitter winds, but 

 their tents are of the poorest description, made 

 of black blanketing suspended from sticks from 

 the outside the rude origin of the beautiful 

 pagoda architecture. Very different are they from 

 the roomy, warm, and comfortable yorts of the 

 nomads of the Pamirs. Flocks and herds are their 

 sole means of livelihood ; their only food besides 

 milk and " dairy produce " being the barley-meal 

 and tea they get in exchange for wool. 



A track running east and west passes close by 

 the tents, and is lost to view in the distance, 

 where the mountains gradually merge into plain. 

 Towards evening, a cloud of dust, looking golden 

 under the setting sun, appears hanging in the west, 

 and attracts the attention of the tent dwellers. It 

 betokens the approach of a caravan, and as it 

 comes nearer, a black mass consisting of moving 

 yaks and men can be seen below it. The yaks are 



