290 Sport and Life in the Further Himalaya 



for as it was the first time she ever rested on deep 

 water, so it was the first time the still waters of 

 Lake Kul-Sar had ever been cut by mortal-made 

 keel ; though whether or no the witch of Atlas 

 ever glided here in her phantom craft, who can 

 say? 



The pinnace passed 

 By many a star-surrounded pyramid 

 Of icy crag cleaving the purple sky 

 And caverns yawning round unfathomably. 



So it was Chitrali hands that for the first time 

 unlaced her outer cover and helped to fit keel and 

 ribs into their places and gradually fill out her 

 canvas skin till she assumed the proportions of a 

 Canadian canoe. And it was a man of Wakhan 

 whom we asked to lift up her bows while we took 

 the stern and slid her gently into the water. 

 Neither Chitralis nor Wakhis had ever seen a boat 

 before, even in their dreams, and when she floated 

 lightly on the water on even keel they said so 

 loudly; and finally, when I paddled out into the 

 lake, mere words were inadequate to describe their 

 surprise and wonder, and they could only ejaculate 

 loud cries of "Ya Allah, ya Allah!" If those 

 Wakhis were the true travellers I take them to be, 

 what tales the Kussians across the borders must 

 have heard ! Nothing less, I feel convinced, than 



