A Canvas Canoe 299 



junction, so there we had the fresh water to 

 drink ; but our next camp on the way back 

 to Ladak was to be a fresh spring on the shore 

 of the other lake, an unknown distance off. Ex- 

 cept at the occasional fresh springs, where for 

 a few yards grass grew luxuriantly, the whole 

 country was barren, without vegetation of any 

 sort. Inhabitants there were none, and but 

 for the occasional sight of Tibetan nomads 

 one might travel for weeks and not see a soul. 



Starting off before daybreak, we slipped along 

 before the breeze and made for the opening of 

 the " canal," whilst our caravan of ponies was 

 toiling in a long line round the bay. That 

 was a great day for geese. We found them in 

 large flocks in the lagoons, and in twos and 

 threes on the banks of the " canal." One trium- 

 phant shot into a gaggle, which the lady in the 

 canoe skilfully manoeuvred up to me as I lay 

 concealed in the reeds, secured six. Some mer- 

 gansers, too, swam for miles in front of the 

 canoe, and when they were tired of that dived 

 down and reappeared behind us. 



What with looking after the geese and a 

 short halt for lunch, it was not till late in the 

 afternoon that we got through the narrow water- 

 way and paddled out into the bitter lake. The 

 caravan had long since left us behind, and how 



