THE GARDEN AT HOME 



out the ends of the growths when they are only a few 

 inches long, and to continue pinching all secondary shoots 

 that appear. This is practised in the cultivation of fruit 

 trees, and with some wall shrubs. It generally achieves 

 the end in view, since the flow of sap is more equally 

 circulated and the balance of growth is restored. 



The presence of gross vigorous shoots in fruit trees 

 is doubly bad ; they are not only themselves unfruitful, 

 but tend to weaken the fruit spurs. A check such as 

 summer pruning gives during full growth is thus to be 

 recommended and greatly to be preferred to the cutting 

 back of shoots so often ruthlessly practised in winter. 

 It is a bad practice to prune when trees and shrubs are 

 starting into growth, for the cut surfaces are liable, in 

 gardening parlance, to " bleed " ; in other words, there 

 is loss of sap which must tend to weaken the plant. When 

 it becomes necessary to remove a large branch or limb 

 from a tree, the cut surface should be covered with tar 

 to prevent the intrusion of disease germs. 



Pruning is a most interesting phase of garden practice, 

 and one about which the most experienced cultivator 

 has much to learn. In fact, it is still one of the most 

 debatable garden practices, and it is difficult if not impos- 

 sible for an individual writer to offer opinions that shall 

 meet with general acceptance. Pruning is often dis- 

 cussed in the gardening papers, and diametrically opposed 

 views are expressed. It is little wonder when experts 

 disagree that amateurs should be so mystified. Most 



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