130 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 



fluous wood at either end. Select clean, straight 

 wood only, from vigorous, healthy plants. 



Insert these cuttings, all but the top inch or so, 

 in a bed of sharp washed river sand of at least 

 four inches depth. Do not force cuttings down into 

 this damp, firm sand or you will bruise the smoothly- 

 cut end. Either make a narrow channel across the 

 bed with an old table knife turned slightly to open 

 sand to width of cutting, or with a piece of lath or 

 wood properly fashioned or a sharpened stick of 

 greater diameter make a hole for each cutting. 



Press the sand firmly about cuttings and wet down 

 well to thoroughly firm the sand, and never after- 

 ward allow it to become dry. If sand is not avail- 

 able, use the lightest and sandiest soil you can get 

 and as free from decaying vegetable matter as pos- 

 sible. A cold frame with a cloth or burlap cover 

 is ideal, as cuttings should at first be kept from 

 sun, and until well started in roots, from strong 

 winds. Later in the season when a vigorous young 

 root system is assured the cuttings may be grad- 

 ually exposed until full sunshine is given them. The 

 average amateur would better use a box in the 

 shade and protection of a building, keeping it at 

 first in the coolest, darkest place available, and well 

 protected, dragging it into light and warmth as the 

 rooting process develops. Dry off box in late fall 

 until roses are semi-dormant and plant out. Spring 

 propagation, practiced by some, is accomplished by 

 same process. 



BUDDING AND GRAFTING 



In budding and grafting the work is usually done 

 in growths of the same diameter and condition as 

 that recommended for cuttings. Grafting is so un- 

 common that the process need not be described. It 



