IN CALIFORNIA 133 



PRUNING THE ROSES 



It is difficult to lay down hard and fast rules for 

 pruning rose bushes for the reason that each bush 

 presents a distinct and individual problem, and much 

 study and experience are necessary before one is 

 fully competent to prune all classes and kinds of 

 roses intelligently. However, a few general rules 

 may be given. 



First cut the whole top off at not less than two 

 feet high on good strong bushes established for a 

 few years. This allows you to get at all parts of the 

 bush. Cut out small twiggy growth that is of less 

 diameter than a lead pencil. Next remove all canes 

 which grow crosswise, that would tend to chafe up- 

 right canes or interfere with their free development. 

 Do not leave a group of canes congested in the 

 center, but aim to leave center of bushes free and 

 open. Do not prune young roses severely; the first 

 year take out weak, thin growth only. 



The aim should be to leave a strong, healthy 

 framework of large, vigorous canes, few in number 

 and standing well apart, the larger ones left longer 

 than the lesser ones by a few inches, but seldom is it 

 well to leave even the strongest more than two feet 

 high. It matters little if no foliage is left, for none 

 is needed. When finally cutting back the few big 

 canes left (which may number from two to seven) 

 it is better to cut a half inch above an outside eye 

 or bud. This will tend to spread the plant and avoid 

 crowded centers where neither light nor air may 

 enter. 



As a rule climbers need but little pruning, and 

 annual bloomers such as the Banksias, Cherokees, 

 Glazenwood, etc., should be cut back immediately 

 after blooming, if any pruning is necessary, for 



