PRUNING. 



237 



can be done so much more quickly, that they are generally 



preferred, and for rampant growing bushes will answer ; 



but upon fruit trees, and choice plants generally, the knife 



is much better. The cut should be made just at a joint, 



but not so far above it as to leave a stub, as in figure 67, 



which will die back to the bud, there being nothing to 



contribute to its growth ; nor should it be made so close 



to the bud as to endanger it, as in figure 66. The cut 



should start just opposite the lower part of the bud and 



end just above its top, as in figure 68. For the removal 



of branches too large to cut witti the knife, as must some- 



times be done on neglected trees, a saw is required. Saws 



are made especially for the 



purpose, but any narrow 



one with the teeth set wide 



will answer. The rough 



cut left by the saw should 



be pared smooth, and if an 



inch or more in diameter, 



the wound should be cov- 



ered. Ordinary paint, melt- 



ed grafting wax, or shellac 



varnish will answer to pro- 



tect the bare wood from air 



and moisture, and prevent 



decay. In pruning it is 



well to remember that the 



future shape of the tree Fi ^ 69 ' 



PR 



will be materially affected 

 by the position upon the branch of the bud to which the 

 cut is made. The upper bud left on the branch will con- 

 tinue the growth, and the new shoot will be in the direc- 

 tion of that bud. If a youiig tree is, as in figure 69, to have 

 all its brandies shortened, and each is cut to a bud, A, 

 pointing towards the center of the tree, the tendency of 

 the new growth will all be inward, as in figure 70; while 



PRUNING FOE SHAPE. 



