A YEAR'S CYCLE IN THE GARDEN 135 



it is far better to grow everything in rows running 

 the length of the garden (north and south if possi- 

 ble). Long rows make necessary fewer turns 

 when cultivating. 



Some General Advice. If there is room for berry 

 bushes, put them (i) all at one end of the garden or 

 (2) all around it, in a three or four foot strip. Even 

 apples, pears, etc., can be grown in this space, by 

 using the dwarf trees, and training them on the 

 walls, or fences bounding the garden. 



Keep the rows of perennial vegetables (asparagus, 

 horseradish and rhubarb) together, at the end of the 

 garden, so that the rest can be plowed in one piece. 



Plan to have the rows of root crops together, as 

 they are all subject to the same diseases, and by 

 moving all the rows from place to place each year, 

 you can lessen the chances of such diseases becoming 

 established. 



Such quick growing plants as lettuce, radish and 

 spinach, need not be given special rows as they can 

 be put in between larger, slower growing kinds. 



Make two plans, or else a compound one, the first 

 part giving the first crops, and those that will remain 

 all season, and the second, giving the succession crops 

 i. e., those that fill in after a crop is removed, or are 

 planted between permanent rows already sowed. 



To find out just how many rows of each vegetable 

 you will need, and how much seed you must use 

 to plant the space, I have compiled the following 

 table from standard authorities, and actual results 

 in an average, well-cared-for garden. To use it, 

 merely decide how many pecks, plants or heads 



