8 THE INVIGOKxVTING " TKADP:." 



concert of frogs, lizards, and insects began. One could readily dis- 

 tino-uish amono-st the notes of the various contributors in the evening 

 chorus, the " kooroo " of the lizard, and the " appa-appa " of the frog, 

 sounds from which tlie native names for these creatures are derived, 

 viz., " kurru-rupu " and " appa-appa." Numerous fire-flies lit up the 

 recesses of the forest, as if to disclose the hiding-places of the per- 

 formers in the general discord, but to no purpose ; and soon, ratlier 

 fatigued by our day's exertions, we fell asleep. So little had my 

 companions been u.scd to wander over their island, that I found 

 three out of the four had never been in that locality before. 



Not unfrequently, after having carefully chosen my guides, I have 

 found it necessarv to lead instead of to follow ; but as a rule my 

 men have been very willing to trust to the directions of the com- 

 pas.s, which I have found absolutely necessary in crossing • the 

 smaller islands with no track to guide the course. Some of m}^ 

 pleasantest memories are associated with my traverses across these 

 smaller islands. After forcing my way during some hours through 

 a tangled forest, irritated by the numerous obstructions in m}^ 

 course and sweltering under the oppressive heat, I have suddenl}^ 

 emerged from the trees on the weather coast of the island, where 

 the invicrorating blast of the trade in a few moments restores the 

 equilibrium of mind and body as one drinks in the healthful breeze. 

 After such an experience, I have found myself with my native com- 

 panions standing on the brink of a bold line of coral-limestone 

 cliff with the surf breaking below us, which even in the calmest 

 weather sends up one continued roar, whilst away to seaward, across 

 the blue expanse of water, extended the horizon unbroken by any 

 distant land. On the edge of the cliff the pandanus and the 

 cycad competed with each other for the possession of the seaward 

 margin of the Island. The scene was yjeculiarly Pacific; and as we 

 .sat alone on the brink of the cliffs enjoying a smoke and contem- 

 j.lating the scene spread out below us, I fancied even the minds of 

 my natives shared with me that feeling of awe with which one views 



the grander of nature's for9es in actual oj)eration Equally 



jileasantare my recollections of numerous tramps during fine weather 

 along the .sandy beaches on the windward coasts of coral islands. 

 On such occa.sions the .sea itself seemed to revel in the glory of the 

 day. Wave after wave, white-tipped with foam and reflecting the 

 brightest of the sun's rays, i)ursued each other merrily over the 

 surface of its unfathomable blue. Against the edge of the reef 



