1918 



AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL 



349 



convenient, i. e., they cost no more 

 than other supers and hold more 

 honey, and having no inside fixtures 

 to nail, much time is saved in nailing. 

 With no ends to section holders they 

 are more convenient to fill, as sec- 

 tions always drop in place easily and 

 fit so snugly to slats there is no room 

 for bees to fill with propolis, conse- 

 quently they are easier taken out and 

 cleaned. 



2. It is the only super I know of 

 that is interchangeable with sections 

 and regular Hoffman frames, except 

 where sections hang inside of frames, 

 which is undesirable. 



3. If I need to feed in a super I 

 can stack the slats and fences to one 

 side, leaving room for feeder without 

 having inside fixtures misplaced. 



I speak strictly from a producer's 

 standpoint, as I have no occasion to 

 ship honey, and my neighbors do 

 not care what style of section they 

 get. For my use I would not consider 

 any other section, as I think these 

 are perfect. Am surprised that more 

 is not said of them in bee journals 

 and catalogs. G. E. LEMON, 



Nash, Okla. 



Uniting Nuclei. — I will describe a 

 device that I find very useful in unit- 

 ing nuclei or weak colonies. It has 

 worked more perfectly with me than 

 anything I have yet tried. I make a 

 division-board of strips that fit tight 

 on the bottom-board and sides and 

 even with the top of cover. I cover 

 both sides of this skeleton frame 

 with wire cloth, so the bees can't 

 fight through. 



I move, let us say, three frames to 

 one side and put in the division- 

 board and a piece of oil cloth over 

 the frames and then block up the en- 

 trance at night and move this colony 

 to the stand o-f the one I want to 

 unite it with. I slip the frames from 

 the other colony in the other side of 

 the hive, having the wire cloth di- 

 vision-board in, and leave that side 

 of the entrance open. 



In three or four days I release the 

 other bees ; or I can leave them 

 longer, as they get ventilation through 

 the wire cloth. They unite without a 

 bit of quarreling. 



I always kill the poorest queen 

 when I first unite them. 



Perhaps this is an old device, but 

 I have never heard of it. 



FRANK HAACK, 

 Marion, Ore. 



Another Feeder. — A good deal has 

 been said in regard to feeding and 

 feeders, but as I have never read 

 anything in the American Bee Jour- 

 nal that comes up to my feeder, I 

 am giving a description of it, as I 

 think some of the subscribers may be 

 benefited by it. I take a lid from a 

 2-lb friction-top honey can and cut a 

 hole through it about an inch and a 

 half across. Over the top side of 

 it I solder a piece of galvanized 

 screen wire, then I put it over the 

 hole in an escape-board upside down, 

 over this I turn a 5-pound honey 

 pail with the lid closely perforated, 

 and the bees can come up and 

 reach through the screen wire to the 

 perforations in the pail that contains 

 the syrup. If it is desired to use 

 more than one pail as many holes 

 can be made in the escape-board as 

 is desired. This keeps the bees out 

 of the extracting super and yet you 

 have an inside feeder less the trouble 

 of the bees while replenishing the 

 syrup. C. H. WILEY, 



Harrisburg, 111. 



Wraps for Outdoor Wintering. — 



When it is desired to wrap hives for 

 outdoor wintering it is entirely un- 

 necessary to buy building, roofing or 

 other expensive paper. Use newspa- 

 per for all except the outside layer, 

 which should be a fair quality of 

 wrapping paper, such as merchants 

 get in rolls for wrapping goods. This 

 can be bought of almost any desired 

 width. After all is in place, tie down 

 firmly and then, with a paint brush, 

 give a coat of the following mixture : 

 Kerosene oil, 1 pint; raw linseed oil, 

 l /z pint. This will so waterproof the 

 paper that it will stand constant ex- 

 posure to rain and sun for a year or 

 two. L. A. GREELEY, 



Morenci, Mich. 



and firmness. Now double again and 

 lay the two doubled ends on the 

 pointed end of the stick, leaving the 

 horsehair project beyond the point of 

 the stick to form a loop or ring about 

 five-thirty-seconds of an inch in di- 

 ameter ; wind fine thread around 

 horsehair and point of stick and it is 

 ready for use. Hold brood-comb so 

 that the light will shine down to the 

 bottom of the cell, insert the ring or 

 loop of horsehair to the bottom of 

 the cell and with a gentle and slight- 

 ly twisting movement you can easily 

 get the young larva lying snugly 

 through the ring when it (and most 

 of the jelly) may be lifted out and 

 placed in the artificial cell cup. 



JOHN GRUBB, 

 Woodmont, Penn. 



Device for Transferring Larvae. — I 



have used many styles of spoons and 

 scoops for the above operation, but 

 not being satisfied with any of them, 

 I designed the following tool, which 

 works quicker, easier, and with no 

 danger of injuring the young larva; : 

 Take a piece of wood about three- 

 sixteenths of an inch thick and 4 

 inches long and shave one end down 

 to a long tapering point; next take 

 a piece of horsehair about 6 inches 

 long and double it and twist the two 

 strands together to give strength 



Beekeepers' Conference. — We have 

 recently received a report of the 

 fifth annual conference of the Na- 

 tional Beekeepers' Association of 

 New Zealand. It reads much like the 

 reports of the conventions in our own 

 country, with the usual problems of 

 disease control, marketing, etc. The 

 organization seems to be in a pros- 

 perous condition, with more than a 

 thousand dollars in the treasury. 



Those Honey Stickers. — The "Eat 

 Honey" stickers which originated 

 with Dr. Bonney and which have 

 been sold here in America by mil- 

 lions are now finding their way into 

 foreign land. They are being adver- 

 tised to the beekeepers through the 

 foreign journals and bid fair shortly 

 to come into world-wide use. 



A New Feeder 



By Charles Boone Saunders 



MY invention is a bee-feeder 

 which is made on the style of 

 a brood-frame, or made to fit 

 into brood-chamber the same as a 

 brood-frame. This feeder has a res- 

 ervoir and a trough, and with holes 

 so placed with reference to each 

 other as to conduct the syrup or 

 honey from the tank to the trough. 

 There is space left between the res- 

 ervoir and trough large enough to 

 let the bees to the syrup or honey. 

 There is a rod in one end of the res- 

 ervoir which is used to regulate the 



;rs Feeder. 



flow of syrup or honey from reser- 

 voir to trough. I fill the feeder 

 through the hole in the top of the 

 reservoir. After reservoir is filled 

 I place a cork or wooden plug in the 

 hole and after I have put the feeder 

 in the hive I turn the rod that is at 

 one end of the reservoir, as shown 

 in the photograph. 



This feeder can be made of any 

 suitable material. The feeder can be 

 used in the hive any time of the year. 

 Bees, also, will not drown. It is a 

 good feeder to use in winter or early 

 spring. When used in spring for feed- 

 ing you need not use a super. 



Barrington, 111. 



