244 TRANSACTIONS OF THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE. 



shortening- in of their branches, as well as tliinning out to keep within 

 proper bounds, and to promote fruitfulness. For general pruning the win- 

 ter months are to be preferred, but no tree or shrub can be said to require 

 pruning only once a year, for one pruning will generally create a necessity 

 for a second and sometimes a third. This is the case with roses, when 

 first planted, it is customary to prune them down to three or four buds, 

 each of these will produce a shoot which must be again cut back to two 

 eyes or buds, and so on until the plant assumes a symmetrical shape. The 

 flower buds are produced on young shoots of this season's growth ; when 

 done blooming, these shoots must be cut back two or three buds, which 

 will cause it to throw out young shoots, and so continue during the season. 

 Climbing roses require to be pruned closely every year, removing all the 

 old wood which bloomed the season previous ; the strong growing varie- 

 ties, as Prairie Queen, Belmont and RussePs Cottage, require close pruning; 

 they are very rampant growers, and if the old wood is allowed to remain, 

 it soon becomes weak and eventually dies. The hardy varieties of monthly 

 roses, generally lose some of their wood during the winter ; this must be 

 cut away, otherwise the young shoots will be weak and consequently pro- 

 duce, poor flowers. The perpetual varieties such as Giant de Battailes, 

 Pius the Ninth, Baron Pi-evost, will flower in perfection in the fall if 

 pruned in July, or as soon as they are done blooming in the spring. Almost 

 all the flowering shrubs are benefited by pruning. Of course it requires 

 some little knowledge of their various characters before commencing the 

 operation. Those that produce their flowers on the young wood, as the 

 Althea, or Rose of Sharon, Syringa Gordoni and some of the spireas, 

 require to be cut back so as to induce them to make new wood. The 

 Lilac, Wigelia and Forsythia, require very little pruning,, only sufficient to 

 keep them in proper shape. There is another class of shrubs which the 

 Rhododendron may be said to represent. This class produces their flowers 

 on the end of their branches. These should never be shortened except for 

 the purpose of increasing the number of branches, and then no flowers can 

 be produced before the next season. The hydrangea requires no pruning 

 except to remove the old decayed wood of which bloomed last year, its 

 duty being done. The different varieties of running vines next claim our 

 attention. The ivy, which is not altogether hardy in tliis country, yet does 

 very well in some situations, requires only to be let alone ; it attaches 

 itself to any rough surface as brick or stone- work, and even rough 

 wood, in fact anywhere it can find room to creep into. The bignonia or 

 Trumpet creeper is similar in its habits. This plant we recommend highly 

 for planting next barns, fences, or any out-buildings where the boards are 

 rough or unplained ; it will not creep on a smooth surface. Care should be 

 taken to prevent its running over roofs, as it is very apt to raise the shin- 

 gles and to cause leakage. This requires close pruning of the young- 

 wood of last season's growth. Wistaria sinensis, one of the most showy 

 of all the hardy vines, is of very rapid growth and needs very close prun- 

 ing. Cut back all the young wood not required for an increased size to 

 two or three eyes or buds. Lonicerra sinenses or honeysuckle, is the most 

 troublesome of all the running vines to keep in a proper shape. It will 

 twine itself around a stick, string, piece of wire, or in fact anything, and 



