PROCEEDINdS OF THE POLYTECHNIC ASSOCIATION. 413 



duced into England. This hat consisted of nothing more than an enormous 

 circle of straw with a central skull-cap of the same material. It was, there- 

 fore, better litted to receive the changes in foi'm through which it was 

 destined to pass than would have been the case if it had consisted of a 

 more elaborate design. Many a chase after a blown-av/ay hat induced the 

 ladies to put their wits to work in order that they might put an end to the 

 vexations which were caused them by their broad and flapping hat-brims. 

 These they soon learned to fasten down upon the side with ribbons, thus 

 forming the so-called "gipsy hat," and making the first approach to a bon- 

 net. Various successful attempts were made to modify the native ugliness 

 of this form of hat, but no radical changOi took place until about the year 

 1790, when, the hinder part of the brim proving troublesome, some v/oman 

 of fashion in a fit of spleen cut it off. Tiius a second advance was made 

 toward the modern bonnet. As if this had been a signal for the overthrow 

 of the then reigning fashions, numerous new shapes of hats or bonnets 

 began to appear. From all these changes the legitimate bonnet came out 

 triumphant, and, notwithstanding its protean character, despite its nume- 

 rous alterations in size and shape, has retained the same essential charac- 

 teristics ever since. 



Let us commence our investigations of the straw bonnet manufacture 

 among us by taking a glance at the manner of preparing the straw. By 

 the time that day dedicated to All-Fools arrives, the rye, which has been 

 sown, and even commenced its growth the fall before, covers the hill slopes 

 with its verdure, in place of the just departed whiteness of the snow, and 

 in June, being nearly out of the blossom, its slender stalks are ready for 

 the sickle. The reaper is very careful to cut his straw at just the right 

 time, for he has learned that a too early gathering produces shrivelled 

 stalks, and a tardy reaping, brittle ones. Having been cut, tied in small 

 bundles, and the loose straws shaken out, the stalks are laid upon a block, 

 and loose their heads by the axe. The largest boiler to be obtained, the 

 one used for scalding hogs the year before maybe, is now brought into 

 requisition, set up perhaps in the field, filled with water, and a hot fire 

 built under it. To this boiler the headless trunks are now brought. After 

 a thorough scalding has removed much of their green sap, the bundles are 

 undone, and the stalks are laid upon a grassy slope to dry, the butts being 

 placed uppermost, in order that the moisture may not collect under the 

 husks that spring up from every joint. Now the straw-maker is called 

 upon to exercise even more watchfulness than the maker of hay; he 

 observes every shower-betoken cloud, and carefully shields his straw from 

 a particle of the rain, which \vould destroy its much prized clearness. 

 After having turned it several times, and allowed it to lie out for about 

 forty-eight hours, the straw is for the last time bundled up and placed under 

 cover. 



When it is desired to braid the straw, children are employed to cut it at 

 the joints, and to take off the easily removed hulls which grow up from 

 these. The smooth lengths of straw between these. joints, are put into a 

 boiler, and a second time submitted to the action of hot water. Even now 

 the tortures of the poor disjointed and scalding straw are by no means 

 ended, but, passing from bad to worse, it has to be placed in a basket, and 



