420 TRANSACTIONS OF THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE. 



But in the blocking room, wliich we now visit, the bonnet commences a 

 steady approach towards its final shape. Beside the coiniter whicb sur- 

 rounds the room stand numerous workmen, each with several plaster model 

 blocks before him. On these blocks the still damp bonnets are fitted, not 

 a little pullincr and judicious pounding being sometimes requireS to get 

 them into shape, this being especially the case when the sewer, in disobe- 

 dience to her rules, has allowed a carelessly formed bonnet to pass. Hay- 

 ing been made to come up to the prescribed mark upon the block, the bon- 

 Dets are pinned there and set away upon numerous racks, placed over 

 steam pipes, to, dry. Afterward they are taken from the blocks and are 

 ready for the next operation. This room being so uncomfortably warm, 

 the thermon)eter standing at nearly 80 deg., we are quiie willing to quit it' 

 and seek another. 



Tiie next in order is the press room. On entering this we find that we 

 have, figuratively speaking, jun)ped out of the frying-pan into the fire, for 

 if the blocking room was hot this is hotter. Coats and vests are discarded 

 as burdensome, and, it being a fair day, every window is thrown open. If 

 we investigate the cause of this heat we shall find that it proceeds princi- 

 pall}'' from the hot flats used by the many workmen here engaged in press- 

 ing bonnets. " But where are the bonnets V the reader exclaims, as he 

 examines the partial vicAv of one of the press' rooms given above. In an- 

 swer to this very natural question it may be well to notice here that the 

 establishment which we are visiting, manufactures, in its triple set of 

 apartments, not only bonnets but both ladies' and gentlemen's hats. Save 

 that a different sliaped block is used in each case, these three forms of head- 

 covering are made in very similar manners. To such an extent, indeed, is 

 this true that we have not hesitated to present engravings of rooms in the 

 hatdepart_ments, when we could thus more conveniently and better illustrate 

 our subject than by prohibiting our artist's camera from entering any apart- 

 ments save those devoted to bonnets. In the press room we are called 

 upon to particularly observe the minute division of labor which is made a 

 specialty by the proprietors of this establishment, and \7hich is everywhere 

 noticeable in it. We see the bonnet, during the simple operation of press- 

 ing, passing through three different hands, the tip, head and front being 

 pressed by different persons. So thoroughly, indeed, are these three pro- 

 cesses separated that the "tip man" could no more perform the labor of 

 those coming after him than the printer's imp could fill with dignity the 

 editorial chair. In each operation the bonnet is placed upon a special 

 wooden block, and pressed by means of a peculiar machine. The machines 

 are similar, however, inasmuch as they all consist of a kind of turn-table, 

 upon which the block is placed, and which moves under a flat of several 

 pounds weight. This flat is pressed down upon the bonnet by t'le appli- 

 cation of the foot to a lever, connecting by a rod with the top of the ma- 

 chine. This is the usual manner; heavy hand flats, with handles at each 

 end, are sometimes substituted, howeve^, and the bonnets pressed upon 

 blocks which allow of but little turning. With surprising rapidity the 

 experienced pressor places the bonnet upon the block of his machine, lays 

 the damp cloth over it to prevent scorching, stands upon one foot, brings 

 his flat to bear with the other, with one hand gives a few revolutions to 



