viii Contents 



CHAPTER V 



KASHMIR 



PAGE 



From Dalhousie to Kashmir Our Start from Gulmerg Baggage, 

 Caravan, and Retainers Magnificent Scenery The Zoji La 

 Pass Mountaineering in Kashmir Ascent of the Silver 

 Throne Glaciers A Near Shave 145 



CHAPTER VI 



FOURTEEN THOUSAND FEET HIGH 



Yem Sar Pass Marmots In a House-boat Srinagar Suffering 

 Moses Shalimar Bagh Woman as a Traveller In Camp 

 Again Native Servants Black Bears No Luck Pine- 

 martens 179 



CHAPTER VII 



BLACK BEARS 



Two Bears in one Beat A Coolie Mauled After Bard Singh 

 Road to Gilgit Tragbal Pass Gurais Gaggai Nullah 

 Snowed up Quit the Passes Nanga Parbat Snow-line Left 

 Behind 217 



CHAPTER VIII 



TIGER-SHOOTING 



Down to the Deccan A Tiger Shoot The March Khubr Into 

 Position A Tree-climbing Tiger A Merciful Escape A 

 Splendid " Great Cat "Heat and Famine We walk a Tiger 

 up for the First and Last Time Death of Beater Return to 

 Civilisation 251 



CHAPTER IX 



SNAKES. DELHI 



Experiences with Snakes Cobras An Inevitable Death Delhi 

 The Ridge Mutiny Days John Nicholson Palace of Great 

 Moguls A Native Pageant Kutab Minar A Deserted City . 285 



