From Dalhousic into Chamba 79 



in and about the station. Strange in the hands of 

 a native servant does one's luggage soon become ; 

 an ayah forgets to pack much, and at the last moment 

 she wraps in towels, pinned together, half the contents 

 of one's drawers. Interesting relics of this sort I 

 recognised on the platform among polo-sticks, gun- 

 cases, rolls of bedding, sun-helmets, and what not. 

 Our dhobiy the washerman, went with us, and as 

 he jostled among the throng a flat-iron tumbled out 

 of the bundle tied up in one of our sheets upon his 

 back, in which he carried all our washing " kit," and 

 his own food, cooking-pan, and spare garment. 



It was a hot journey : we dined at Umritzer station 

 and had a short night, for we were called at 2 a.m. the 

 following morning. Sir George was anxious to start 

 early ; and having dressed by the light of the railway 

 oil, we struggled out of the train, yawning, on to the 

 platform. Tongas and bullock-carts were waiting 

 under the stars in the dark road, and were eventually 

 packed by a much tried aide-de-camp. We were off, 

 and if sleepy, it was at least cool. 



Dawn broke to find us still driving uphill through a 

 rough scrub country ; the plains began to lie below us, 

 and in front lay the zigzag outline of the Dalhousie 

 hills. We changed with each other from the back to 

 the front seats of the tonga for the satisfaction of being 

 jolted and bruised upon some fresh bone ; but in spite 

 of the lack of springs we nearly dropped off to sleep 

 when the sun grew hot. A dak bungalow at last 

 raised every one's spirits. Ponies which we had sent 



