From Dalhousie into Chamba 101 



we were met half-way and welcomed by Bhuri Singh, 



brother of the Rajah, some of the ministers of the 



state, the Commander-in-chief, etc. Two elephants, 



dazzling in gold and scarlet embroidery, were ready 



for us, and we climbed into their gilded howdahs, 



and were carried in state into the city, and up a 



long, wide stretch of lawn, an ideal polo-ground, to 



the gates of the Guest House itself. The military 



band was drawn up outside, and on our arrival struck 



up " God Save the Queen." It sounded homelike 



in that company of Orientals. We stood up and 



returned the salute, only to subside into the bottoms 



of the howdahs, for the elephants unexpectedly knelt 



down for us to dismount ! The Rajah himself was 



waiting in the Guest House, which he had provided with 



servants and with every comfort for our reception. 



After his call was over, and breakfast in a great, 



cool, octagonal-shaped room had come to an end, 



washed and changed, we spent the rest of the day 



in the finest verandah I have ever seen in my life : 



it was built of great wooden beams with deep eaves, 



upon the first floor, was broad as an ordinary room, 



and overhung the Ravee, which tossed and tumbled 



with a sleepy roar below. 



Towards evening we went out again ; the General 

 and S. had to return the Rajah's state call, while M. 

 and myself called upon the Ranee. The army of the 

 state and our guard of forty sowars had by this time 

 been withdrawn ; we walked down the beautiful green 

 maidan with its smooth turf, accompanied only by the 



