Chamba into Kashmir 117 



The next march on the following day was even 

 hotter ; we were shut in by precipitous gorges and 

 immense heights on either side. The sun glowed 

 down ; and it was hard work, following on the day 

 before. We dipped our heads over the ears in every 

 stream we crossed. Even sitting upon Sphai, the 

 perspiration trickled down all over one, so it may be 

 imagined that walking along the mountain-sides was 

 severe, climbing up the steep side of one valley, only 

 to struggle down another and then toil up again, and 

 so on, ad lib. 



The coolies were left miles behind, and the servants, 

 big umbrellas and all, were not much better, a great 

 deal of hookah being smoked by every stream. The 

 last ascent to Tisah was almost worst of all ; but as 

 we laboured up the mountain we had at least the 

 satisfaction of seeing our goal in the distance. We 

 were more than five hours on this march; and after 

 the servants were in I shudder to think how many 

 quarts and quarts of tea we drank ! We went to 

 bed at seven that night ; there happened to be what 

 the servants called a stick-waller in the bungalow 

 too (a Woods and Forests officer), and there was not 

 much room left for us. 



After having retired so early, we rose without 

 difficulty at 4 a.m. in the dark, dressed by a candle- 

 end, had hazri y and got through our march before 

 the heat of the day. We saw the sun come up over 

 the peaks, and turn all the snows ablaze with pink. 

 It was a great deal cooler ; we were still climbing 



