Chamba into Kashmir 121 



were evidently shot down into the streams below, to 

 be floated off as felled timber. 



Breathlessly we clambered on. About midday we 

 got up to short grass and open space, with a good 

 many tree-rhododendrons growing near. Having been 

 allowed by the Jemadar and bearer to sit down, we 

 were surprised at a camp-bed being suddenly brought 

 us. Again our want of the vernacular in the absence 

 of S. was trying ; however, it was soon explained, in 

 limited English, that this actually was Jamouni. So 

 here we were probably the first European women 

 who had ever penetrated as far into Chamba. The 

 tents were put up in an incredibly short time, and 

 we had tiffin. It was a magnificent spot such a 

 view ! 



We strolled about by ourselves the rest of the 

 afternoon, and found ourselves upon snow in a short 

 time. The nullahs were full of it, frozen, directly the 

 sun sank, hard as iron and slippery as glass ; in middle 

 day the top more or less slushy. 



We had not gone very far before MamdTn came 

 rushing, breathing heavily, after us : " Dis countree 

 veree jungley, Mees Sahib. Ehalu \ " We promised 

 him we would not be eaten up by bears, and at last 

 persuaded him to leave us. 



Once in some thick undergrowth we heard a heavy 

 animal moving, but it was not clear enough to allow us 

 to see. No doubt plenty of bears were about, and 

 we began to wish we had brought a rifle with us. 

 These red bears, (lal bhalu) are only to be found 



